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Figure 1 Christian Dior fixing the dress he designed on a model.
Figure 1 Christian Dior fixing the dress he designed on a model.
On February 2, 1947, Christian Dior launched his first fashion collection for Spring/Summer 1947, “Carolle”, thus putting an end to the wartime styles that had dominated the fashion world ever since 1939. The new collection went down in the fashion history and got to be known by the name of the “New Look”.
During World War II, designers had been forced to adjust their styles to wartime cloth restrictions due to the lack of materials. Women’s clothes were close fitting, with square shoulders and shorter skirts, as seen in the images below.
With the New Look, Dior made several changes to the wartime fashion ( characterized by military and civilian uniforms); his outfits had rounded shoulders, full skirts, and a narrow waist. The dresses were lined with expensive and luxurious fabrics such as cambric or taffeta and were beautifully detailed. Outfits were accessorized with a hat (often worn to one side), long gloves and simple jewelry.
Figure 2 The New Look: rounded shoulders, full skirt, and a narrow waist.
Figure 2 The New Look: rounded shoulders, full skirt, and a narrow waist.
The New Look created an international sensation. Some crticized Dior’s work by saying that manufacturers didn’t have enough cloth to make the full skirt that he had designed, and that women didn’t have enough money to buy them. But groups of women had a different opinion after seeing the collection at Paris fashion shows; they believed that femininity had returned to women’s clothing. As for other designers, they started imitating Dior’s designs and impelementing the New Look features in their own lines of clothing.
Figure 3 Jean Desses imitating Dior 's New Look in 1951.
Figure 3 Jean Desses imitating Dior 's New Look in 1951.
Figure 4 Balenciaga adding the New Look into her designs in 1955.
References: Fashion History Classics: Who invented the “New Look”?. (2011, Oct, 27). from http://www.speak-fashion.de/fashion_history/classics/fashion-history-classics-who-invented-the-new-look The New Look (1947). (October 29, 2010). from http://www.aprettierplace.net/2010/10/new-look-1947.html Charleston, Beth Duncuff. Based on original work by Harold Koda. "Christian Dior (1905–1957)". In Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–. http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/dior/hd_dior.htm (October 2004)