Fashion Industry of Pakistan

| Pakistan Fashion Apparel Industry | Analysis of Pakistani Industry | | | |

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Submitted to:
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Ms. Mehwish Ghulam Ali
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Submitted By:
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Layla-Tul-Qadr
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Ali Qasim
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Saad Nasir Chandna
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Sohaib Waseem
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Wali Haider
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LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL

Ms. Mehwish Ghulam Ali
Course Instructor,
Analysis of Pakistani Industry,
Institute of Business Administration (IBA), Karachi.

We take pleasure in submitting to you this academic report. It mainly aims to study the processes and mechanisms involved in The Pakistani Fashion Apparel Industry as well as providing an apt analysis from our point of view.
The Pakistani Fashion Apparel Industry is a rapidly growing one owing to the rising trends in fashion. Therefore, this report aims to analyze the competitiveness of this Industry. The domestic market will be looked at for the most part and we will also compare this with the International demand.
Organizations looking for data on the Fashion Apparel Industry in Pakistan will find this report particularly useful, since it is rare that a report analyzing the fashion industry is presented. It also acts as an informative resource material for any reader interested in knowing more about this emerging industry in Pakistan.

Regards,
Layla-Tul-Qadr
Ali Qasim
Saad Nasir Chandna
Sohaib Waseem
Wali Haider

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

We would like to start by praising the Almighty Allah, the Supreme Being who bestowed profound perseverance and ability on us, which drove us to draft and complete this report.
We wish to thank Mr. Amir Adnan, Miss Sana Maskatiya, Mr. AdilMoosajee (CEO Ego) and Miss Samar Mehdi for their precious time and patience to our endless questions.
We also express our profound and cordial gratitude to our learned teacher, Ms Mehwish Ghulam Ali, for her valuable guidance throughout the semester.
We also thank those reading this for giving due consideration on this report.

Contents Outlook 2010 and beyond 6 Fashion as an Industry: 14 History 16 How do you know what will be the in-thing the future? 20 Processes in Fashion: 20 Role of Media: 20 Significance: 21 Trends in the Fashion Industry: 22 Raw Materials 24 The Importance of Quality Textiles in the Fashion Industry: 24 Cotton as a major raw material: 25 Constraints of the textile industry: 25 Labor 26 Advanced Factors: 26 Importance: 26 Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PDFC) 27 Fashion Designing Colleges in Pakistan 28 Schools of Fashion 29 Pakistan School of Fashion Design (PSFD), 30 Hajvery University 31 Karachi School of Textile & Fashion Designing 31 National College of Arts Lahore (NCA Lahore) 31 Indus Valley School 32 The Asian Institute of Fashion Design 33 Brand building 36 The Importance of Branding in Fashion 37 Uniqueness of marketing fashion 38 Marketing Fashion 38 How are Brands different from Products? 38 The Luxury Brand System 39 Value Addition Process in Fashion Marketing: 39 How local demand differ from international demand 39 Exports 40 Fashion Councils 41 Textile: 42 Designing: 43 Modeling: 43 Photography: 43 Stylists: 44 Fashion Shows: 44 Beauticians: 44 Fashion Event Management: 45 Celebrities Gossip Shows & Interviews: 45 Jewelers: 45 Shoes and handbags: 46 Film and Drama: 46 Dyeing and coloring: 47 Pakistani Fashion Schools 48 Major Players 48 Amir Adnan 48 MARIA B 49 Junaid Jamshed 50 HSY (Hassan Shehreyar Yasin) 51 Hajra Hayyat 52 How it formed what it is today: 53 Political forces 55 Economic Forces 56 Socio-Cultural Forces 56 Technological Forces 57 Rivalry among competing firms 61 Threat of new entrants 61 Potential development of substitute products 62 Bargaining power of suppliers 62 Bargaining power of customers 62 PEST – C Evaluation 63 Political forces 63 Economic Forces 63 Socio-Cultural Forces 64 Technological Forces 65 Competitive Forces 65 Rising Popularity 68 Mainly Domestic 69 Dressing the West 69 Domestic Bliss 69 Going Global 70 Stepping out 70 Current position of Indian Fashion Industry 71 India’s fashion industry to reach $187.5 million 71 Opinion on Pakistani Fashion 73 'Indian fashion proceeding at breakneck speed' 74 Indian fashion industry lacks professionalism 75 Chennai tailors for Katy Perry 76 Indian fashion going nowhere 77 Questionnaire 78

Research Methodology

* Interviews 1. Amir Adnan 2. Basharat Mustafa (style360) 3. Adil Moosajee (CEO Ego) 4. Samar Mehdi * Fashion Journals * Internet Search Engines * Questionnaires

Pakistani Economy & Fashion Apparel
Textile and Apparel is one of the oldest and largest export industries in the world. When compared with others, it is also one of the more global industries, seeing how most nations produce for the international textile and apparel market. A springboard for national development, apparel production is often is the typical starter industry for countries engaged in export-oriented industrialization due to its low fixed costs and emphasis on labor-intensive manufacturing.
The entire global textile and apparel industry has been rapidly expanding since the early 1970’s and has been able to provide employment to tens of millions of workers in some of the least-developed countries in the world. However, the industry has experienced two major crisis in the past five years.
The regulatory aspect is the first crisis. The Multi-Fiber Arrangement (MFA) established quotas and preferential tariffs on apparel and textile items imported by United States, Canada and many European Nations since the early 1970’s. This was eventually phased out by the World trade Organization ( WTO) between 1995 and 2005 via its arrangement on textile and clothing. Many poor and small developing economies relying on apparel exports were concerned that they would be pushed out of the global trading system by much larger, low cost rivals, such as China, India, Vietnam, Bangladesh, etc.
The second crisis is economic. The recent global recession, which was sparked by the meltdown of the banking sector in the United States in 2008 and quickly spread to most of the major developed and developing economies, brought the world to the brink of the most severe economic crisis since the Great Depression. Plant closures and worker layoffs in the industrialized nations led to considerable deficits in consumer demand, which resulted in fewer orders and shrinking target markets for the export-oriented economies of the developing world. The recession was particularly hard on the textile and apparel industry; leading to factory shutdowns, sharp increases in unemployment, and growing concerns over social unrest as workers laid off sought new jobs.
The global textile and apparel exports during year 2009 was US$ 211bn and US$ 316bn respectively as against US$ 250bn and US$ 362bn during 2008 and down by 15.6% and 12.8% respectively.
After declining for three consecutive years, world cotton production is expected to rebound by 16% to 25 million tons by 2010/2011, encouraged by the significant rise in prices experienced in recent seasons. Global cotton mills also continue to recover, but more slowly than in 2009/2010 due to limited available supplies and higher prices, to 25 million tons. As production and consumption are forecast to roughly balance in 2010/2011, world ending stocks are expected to remain stable at 9 million tons.
World cotton imports are expected to continue to recover in 2010/2011, growing by 8% to 8.4 million tons. These would be the largest volume imports in three years. This increase will be driven by Chinese imports, forecast of 28% larger at 3 million tons.
The strong global recovery in yarn and fabric production, observed since their lows in the first-quarter of 2009, came to an end in the first-quarter 2010. Both yarn and fabric production dropped significantly compared to the first-quarter 2009. Yarn and Fabric production fell especially in Asia but also in Europe, whereas South and North America recorded stable or higher output level in comparison to the previous quarter.
World yarn production dropped by-12.8% in the first-quarter, 2010 in comparison to the previous one. This is a significant drop which is mainly a consequence of a lower output level in China -a 17.3% decline. Europe also recorded a decrease of 4%, whereas North and South America’s production rose by 5.1% and 17.4% respectively, in comparison last year’s quarter all regions still recorded higher output levels.
Fabric production decreased worldwide by 9.7% in the first-quarter 2010. Asia and Europe both recorded lower output levels of 11.4% and 3.6% respectively.
The main factor for this drop is China where fabric production fell by 16.4%. North and South America on the other hand reported stable and higher output levels of +/-0% and 5.3% respectively.
Outlook 2010 and beyond
Over the past 60 years since the founding of PRC, China has developed from an agrarian-based country to a new development stage when China is evolving into a well-off society. Chinese textile industry has played three roles consistently, namely the role as a pillar industry, the role as an important well-being industry and the role as an international competitive industry.
In China there were 540 million people in 1949, with the urbanization rate of only 10.64%. The yarn output was only 327 thousand tons. In 2008 the national population was 1.328 billion with urbanization rate as 46%, the yarn output reached 21, 49 million tons, an increase of 64.7 times. Fiber output grew from scratch to 24.05 million tons. The textile industry now employs 20 million people, 80% of which are migrant workers. The industry has also provided an enormous market for 9 million tons of natural fiber of Chinese agricultural sector and has sped up the urbanization process in the countryside.
The per capita consumption of fiber in China has exceeded 15 kg and fiber processing for production, consumption has reached about 6 million tons. The export of textiles grew from 26 million USD in 1949 to 167 billion USD in 2009, illustrating the dramatic change in the industry. However, China’s industrialization process is still only halfway complete. The per capita GDP is just little over 3000 USD and 700 million Chinese people still live in the countryside, which accounts for 54% of the total population. As shown by practice, Chinese textile industry will continue to play its historical role, until China completes the construction of a well-off society and industrialization.
On the country side, China is far ahead of the others in terms of development. It has furthered its dominant position in all the major industrial economies, such as the United States, the European Union and Japan. China also managed to diversify its export market by gaining ground in many of the world’s top emerging economies, such as Russia for finished goods, and India, Brazil and Turkey for intermediate goods, such as textiles. Other developing economies have also gained in the post-MFA era, such as Bangladesh, India, Pakistan, Vietnam and Indonesia. But regional suppliers have been hard hit, especially Mexico and CAFTA-DR in North America, and Eastern European and North African suppliers to the European Union.
From the firms’ perspective, phasing out of the quota and the economic recession has accelerated the ongoing shift to a rationalization of the global supply chain. Major retailers, brand marketers, and brand manufacturers have clarified their preference to work with fewer, larger and more capable suppliers, strategically located around the world to minimize costs and increase reliability.
The current per capita consumption of fibers in North America, Western Europe, Japan, Taiwan, South Korea and Turkey is more than 10 kg. Annual per capita consumption of fibers in the rest of the world is less than 10 kgs. For the period until 2020, an additional demand of fibers, yarns and threads is forecast, raising the annual per capita consumption from 10.9 kgs to 13.5 kgs by 2020.
The textile and clothing industry continues to be buyer-driven, dominated by large retailers, branded manufacturers and marketers which control global production networks and stipulate supply specifications.
Large retailers have increasing power over manufacturers in terms of price, quality, lead times and raw material inputs. In the past, the contractor had to provide cutting and finishing in addition to sewing. Then the contractor also had to purchase the fabric and other raw materials and record/show the product on their books until 30 to 60 days after shipment. Today, the full package includes expanded services in design and merchandising as well as direct selling.
In addition, an increasing number of overseas buyers are selecting suppliers based on factors unrelated to production - such as social compliance and environmental standards. Social compliance comprises of freedom of association, fair wages, fair working hours and fair social benefits, minimum age (child labor), equal opportunities employment and safe working conditions.
Integration between different stages of the textile chain may provide greater advantages in terms of speed of response to market demands and suppression of non-value added activities along the chain. These may impact on items like product development, productivity, sales volumes, leftovers of finished products and raw materials. A successful integration strategy may lead to cost savings of up to 25% of the total cost. Integration may take place either in the form of strategic alliances between companies at different stages of the textile chain, or through mergers and acquisitions.
In a move to cut third party providers, new information and communication technologies improve long-distance supply capabilities and establishes virtual exchange “market” to set Internet communication standards for textile and clothing products. Internet development enables all parties to reconsider the role of each stakeholder of the textile chain.
There will be a significant shift to non-store retailing all types, from the traditional phone-order to interactive, in-home shopping-or anywhere, shopping.
The growth in domestic demand in developing countries, particularly in Asia, could lead to these countries supplying greater proportions of production to the domestic market, as is the case with China.
The textile equipment suppliers will continue to play important role in intensifying international competition in the textile and clothing sectors. These international companies have to ensure that new products and technologies are diffused rapidly to achieve and establish a global outreach,.
Environmental regulation is spurring considerable product reformulation and increased interest in recovery and reuse operations. Chemical suppliers are moving away from the use of unpleasant solvents, heavy metals, salt and other chemicals that release formaldehyde, volatile organic compounds or other regulated materials.
The outlook of textile end-use markets plays a key role in both the volume and mix of textile chemical consumption. Best prospects are expected in medical products, especially value-added nonwovens, high performance industrial textiles such as coated fabrics, carpets and rugs.
Biotechnology, among other things, is transforming the world cotton industry. The cotton varieties developed with application of biotechnology can increase yields by 30-40%. These accounted for more than half of world production in the 2007/2008 season. Cotton production practices will change drastically in the next two decades.
Man – made fabric will remain a global product whereas developed countries will focus on high function fibers, developing countries will concentrate on mass production of commodity fibers.
Man-made commodity fiber producers are ardently competing with each other. In order to survive, they need to shift to countries yielding fairly high demand for their products. The production of high tech fibers however will remain, where textile processing industry is located.
Recent studies have indicated that an estimated 40% of fiber consumption within developed countries is consumed in the manufacture of technical textiles. Technical textiles include textiles for automotive applications, medical textiles (e.g.; implants), geo textiles (reinforcement of embankments), agro textiles (textiles for crop protection) and protective clothing (e.g.; heat and radiation protection for fire fighter clothing, molten and metal protection for welders, stab protection and bulletproof vests, and space suits.) Technical textiles are expected to continue to grow at a higher rate than any other segment of the textile market.
In today’s profit-maximizing market place, it has become a norm to source clothing from countries with low costs, which are for the most part developing countries. Furthermore, buyers are being forced to look for ever cheaper sources in order to satisfy consumers whose demands keep rising while competition at the retail level continues to get tougher.
However, there is still a gap in the market for manufacturers based in Western Europe and the USA, who produce goods in their own country for sale in the domestic market and for export. Production costs are usually much higher in developed countries. Labor costs alone in Western Europe can be over 100 times as high as those in certain Asian countries. Despite that, manufacturing in developed countries has its perks. One benefit is flexibility in being able to offer smaller production runs and short delivery times. Though distant suppliers may be cheaper, they often demand minimum quantities which can be too high for smaller companies. Furthermore, buyers increasingly prefer sourcing from factories which adhere to corporate social responsibility-CSR programmers in general- and fair labor practices in particular.
Factories based in Western Europe and the USA are usually easier to audit. They are also audited regularly, providing them with a significant competitive edge. It is also generally easier for a buyer to verify the accuracy of claims by suppliers to ensure that their factories comply with the standards. Importantly, sourcing closer to home enables a company to cut down the travel time a product needs to reach the customer. It also hence provides scope for the company to reduce its carbon footprint. The strengths, weaknesses and threats to leading textile and apparel manufacturing countries are given on the following pages:

------------------------------------------------- China
Strengths
* Labor-high productivity, competency and experience. * China excels in improving productivity in light of rising inflation. * Cost of labor and quota elimination. * Quality of fabric and garments. * Reliability. * Technology investment (logistics). * Product diversity; fabric and finished goods. * Availability of abundant raw material. * Availability of abundant labor. * Mentality of the management; “can do” business approach. * Government Support.
Weaknesses/Threats
* Inflation (increases producer prices), and labor competition from higher paying, non-apparel sector industries. * Labor costs and labor laws: Rising domestic wages are expected to increase further as a result of new labor laws. Labor Rate $1.44/1.88 per hour. * Currency appreciation, energy costs are increasing. * Shipping Cost: Major increases. * Product Safety issues.
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Turkey
Strengths
* Flexibility and Speed, for example domestic manufacturers are investing in new production centers in Egypt.
Weaknesses/ Threats * Labor costs:$2.44 per hour * IP Enforcement. * Inflation in raw material costs compared to competitors.
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India
Strengths
* Product diversity, as being the most diversified exporter of textile and clothing products in South Asia. * Flexibility and speed are major strengths, when compared China, flexibility can cater to buyer’s requirements for small customized orders as well as large orders. Intricate; high quality garments with flexibility and speed. * Government Support. * Domestic market: Growing number of firms switching to domestic market. * Labor cost: $0.51 per hour, availability of raw material and availability of enough labor.
Weaknesses /Threats * Procedural hurdles to international trade. * Lack of scale economies, as 80% of textile and clothing units are small, cottage like typically employing less than 50 employees. * Currency appreciation (rupee). * Inflation in raw material costs-compared to competitors, as well as increase in manufacturing costs, such as power, operating and transactions costs is higher in comparison to competitors.

------------------------------------------------- Bangladesh
Strengths
* Lower costs of production and firm’s willingness to keep margins low; while investing in new technology to improve productivity and to reinforce relationships with buyers. * Improvement in terminal handling and customs, for example handling and customers have gone from 12-13 days as recently as last year to clear goods within 3 days. * Labor costs and availability: $0.31/hour. * Energy costs and currency depreciation coincided with post-ATC period offering more advantage to knit exports. * Growing textile investment from Taiwanese and Korean investors for setting up fabric/fiber operations.
Weaknesses/Threats
* Design, soft skills and technology. * Currency fluctuation (mainly euro). * Shortage of skilled workers and middle management; Human Capital (poor) and worker unrest and strikes over poor pay and conditions. * Energy Reliability; power interruptions in the national power grid are common, and stand-alone generators are often needed, which are more expensive. * Inefficient Infrastructure: port and transportation.
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Vietnam
Strengths
* Alternate to China: FDI & Sourcing. * Growing textile industries: Taiwanese and Korean investors are setting up operations. * Growing exports to Japan and domestic market. ASEAN trade pacts. * Relatively stable business environment and Government support. * Labor cost-$0.38 per hour.
Weaknesses/Threats
* Lack of skilled workers with experience in technology, fashion and management. * Dependent on imported textiles.
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Indonesia
Strengths
* Large domestic market. * Large Installed production capacity. * Low labor costs: $0.44 per hour and relatively low turnover rates. * Long, refined textile tradition (batik techniques, embroidery).
Weaknesses/Threats
* High energy costs. * Outdated machinery. * Inconsistency of general business climate; unfavorable bureaucracy, taxes, corruption and security issues.

------------------------------------------------- Mexico
Strengths
* NAFTA: Proximity to the United States
Weaknesses /Threats * Labor cost: $2.17per hour
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Pakistan
Strengths
* Low Labor Cost: $0.56 per hour. * Government support and liberal FDI policies with incentives. * Currency Depreciation; against the U.S. Dollar and other western currencies. This has raised exports and also raised the cost of imported inputs. * Fairly large domestic market. * Availability of raw material especially cotton. * Trade concession proposal by EU- Duty free access to 60 products of textile and clothing to EU market.
Weaknesses /Threats * Energy access and reliability. * National instability and security. * Quality and color consistency of textiles and clothing. * Lack of design skills and global market knowledge. Lack of supporting resources, such as research & training.

------------------------------------------------- Sri Lanka
Strengths
* Diversification of exports as well as focus on niche apparel. The enterprising nature of the private sector to position country in niche markets. * Quality, on-time deliveries & service. * Compliance & emphasis on international labor and environmental standards. * Low labor costs: $ 0.46 per hour
Weaknesses/Threats
* Loss of EU-GSP+Status. * Lack of indigenous raw material supply. * Dependence on apparel exports. Lower productivity, design capabilities.

Introduction
What is Fashion?
Fashion is the prevailing style or custom characteristic – trends set mainly by the social elite. Fashion is a general term for a popular style or practice, especially in clothing, footwear, accessories, makeup, or furniture. "Fashion" refers to a distinctive; however, often-habitual trend in a look and dress up of a person, as well as to prevailing styles in behavior. Fashion is an everyday phenomenon and often ends up reflecting the person’s personality. The only thing that doesn’t change about fashion is that it keeps on changing. We are constantly courted with new fashion ideas from music, videos, books, and television. Musicians and other cultural icons have often influenced what we're wearing, but so have political figures and royalty. At other times, steering away from the norm is labeled fashion.
Fashion has been around for ages, going back centuries. Fashion is revealing. Clothes reveal what group people are in. Acceptance or rejection of a style is a reflection of the society we live in. Fashion is a language which tells a story about the person who wears it. "Clothes create a wordless means of communication that we all understand". During the mid-1800's, a mass production of clothing was made fashionable and available to more people for lower prices. This encouraged more people to wear more stylish clothes which are why we are wearing what we are today.
Fashion as an Industry:
The fashion industry is a product of the modern age. By the beginning of the 20th century—with the rise of new technologies such as the sewing machine, the rise of global capitalism and the development of the factory system of production, and the proliferation of retail outlets such as department stores—clothing had been increasingly mass-produced in standard sizes and sold at fixed prices. Although the fashion industry developed first in Europe and America, it is now an international, highly globalized industry. Clothing is often designed in one country, manufactured in another, and subsequently sold world-wide.
It covers a wide range of activities from traditional and contemporary craftsmanship to fashion and furnishing collection. Its final stage includes marketing (and selling) Fashion.
Fashion is a hugebusiness. More people are involved in the buying, selling and production of clothing than any other business in the world. Every day, millions of workers design, sew, glue, dye, and transport clothing to stores. Ads on buses, billboards and magazines give us ideas about what to wear, consciously, or subconsciously.
Fashion design is the art of the application of design (and aesthetics or natural beauty) to clothing and accessories. Fashion design is highly influenced by cultural and social latitudes, and has varied over time and geographical space. Fashion designers work in a number of ways to design clothing and accessories. Some work alone or as part of a team. They attempt to satisfy consumer desire for aesthetically designed clothing; and, because of the time required to bring a garment onto the market, must at times anticipate changing consumer tastes and stay ahead of the curve, so to speak.
Fashion designers attempt to design clothes which are functional as well as aesthetically pleasing. Who is likely to wear a garment and the situations in which it will be worn are important factors to be considered. They have a wide range and combinations of materials to work with and a wide range of colors, patterns and styles to choose from. Though most clothing worn for everyday wear falls within a narrow range of conventional styles, unusual garments are usually sought for special occasions, such as evening wear or party dresses.
Some clothes are made specifically for an individual, as in the case of “haute couture” or “bespoke tailoring”. In the modern world, most clothing is designed for the mass market, especially casual and every-day wear.

Nature of Fashion

History

Pakistan fashion has gone global and showcases all that is positive about Pakistan. At a time when the world’s headlines focus on our conflict, our fashion industry shows that Pakistan has a future that can be really bright. Pakistan has been a major culture hub since ancient times, with a cultural history dating back to the Indus Valley civilization (2800 – 1800 BC). Practices and great monuments have been inherited over time through the rulers of the region, from the Persians to the Afghans and the Mughals, each of whom have left their imprint on the current inhabitants of the country. Pakistani society is largely multilingual, multi-ethnic and multicultural, each influenced greatly by many of its surrounding countries. Pakistan was the first region of South Asia to receive the full impact of Islam and has developed a distinct Islamic identity, historically different from areas further west. Pakistan has always been a major center for the arts, and literature, music, dance and poetry have played a major role in Pakistani life over many centuries. Pakistani music is represented by a wide variety of forms, ranging from rational styles such as Qawalli and Ghazal to more modern forms that fuse traditional Pakistani music with Western music. Pakistanis have evolved a distinct and unique set of culture, traditions and customs in the region, at the heart of which are the arts. For two decades AdnanAnsari has been central in Pakistan’s fashion and media industry. Now based in London, England he is launching a series of events that will raise the profile of Pakistani culture and fashion as never before. Riwayat will showcase only the very best of Pakistani design.
Fashion in itself is a very abstract term yet it embraces our everyday lives. The term has many different definitions and interpretations. According to the American Heritage College Dictionary, fashion is “the prevailing style or custom, as in dress or behavior; something such as garment, which is in the current mode; the style characteristic of the social elite.” (Forbes Inc., 1997)
Fashion is an extension of self, an extension of individuality, of art and modernism. It has no borders or divides. Its passion and it is the constant evolution of society (Graford, 2002). Fashion is a social phenomenon common to many fields of human activity and thinking. To some, fashion is a form of art. To others, it is life. For most people it is a method of utilizing clothing, accessories and hair. Fashion is a mode to express yourself, to serve as an extension of your personality, or to even disguise your true self (Nellis, 1999).
Fashion is a term commonly used to describe a style of clothing worn by most of the people of a country. A fashion usually remains popular for about 1-3 years and is then replaced by yet another fashion. Even though there are a lot of changes in fashion, most people do not easily accept the changes. A clothing style may be introduced as a fashion, but its use becomes a custom after being handed down from generation to generation. A fashion that comes and goes is a Fad.
There have been many changes and evolutions in the history of fashion since the 1900s. As the century dawned, fashion was an exclusive enterprise, the pursuit of wealth. The average person in society settled for garments that were usually stitched at home. With time, however, networks of neighborhood tailors began to evolve into a retail history and the boom was followed by boutique selling.
The 1930s were the era dominated and influenced by socialism, communism and fascism and women’s fashion became more and more feminine in keeping with these conservative ideas. However this period also the emergence of the culture of clubs and in the West primarily, the dresses became more body-hugging and colors went more deep and dark. The establishment of Indian and Pakistani cinema has proved to be the strongest influence on the fashion in the decade. Due to heavy western influences, the use of angarkhas, choghas and jamas had diminished considerably by this time, although the ceremonial pugdi, safa and topi were as widespread as ever. They had been replaced by the sherwani, which is still a standard item of formal dress for Indian and Pakistani men today.
Even though women were accepting change, they continued to wear the peshwaz, kurta, ghaghra and odhni at religious and ceremonial festivities, which were even sometimes made of imported fabrics.
The 1950s saw the dawn of art colleges and schools and due to the freedom struggle and the adoption of khadi by Gandhi, the dying and handloom industries got more business.
The 1960s was one of the most shock-filled decades of the century,asit saw sweeping fashion and lifestyle changes. Tight kurtas and churidars competed with mini-skirts abroad and at the same time, designers began to understand the need for cheaper, ready-to-wear lines.
The 1970s saw the export of traditional material with the result that export surplus was sold within the country itself and hence, international fashion came to the sub-continent. Synthetics became popular and the clothes even flashier.
In the 1980s big money ruled. In Pakistan too, silhouettes became more masculine and the shalwarkameez was made with shoulder pads.
The influence of cable TV became more prominent and the teenage market boomed with youngsters who were more fashion conscious. (Baig,2004)
Mid 1990s and the beginning of the 21st century was marked fashion designers that changed the way fashion was contemplated.
Designers greatly influence what direction fashion will go. These designers design and define future fashion developments. They are the trendsetters of change in a culture – through change in tastes and lifestyles of a community which is often characterized by changes in current trends and styles. And changes in fashion play one of the major roles in these transformations.
The activities of these designers, collaboratively, form the fashion industry. The fashion industry of Pakistan is growing in volume with every passing day. The credit goes chiefly to the mainstream fashion people, who have been instrumental in this change. (Nisar, 2004) The industry has witnessed quite a mature spurt in the last two decades evolved from a traditional darzi (tailor) culture into a mature and cutting-edge business (Imam, 2008). However the status of fashion designers in our country greatly owes to the fashion institutions, particularly the Pakistan School of Fashion Design (PSFD) – now called the Pakistan Institute of Fashion Design which was played its role in bringing out the potential and imparting training to young designers who today enjoy a reputed name in the retail market. Some of these recognized names include Maria B, HasanShehryarYasin, Deepak Parwani and Maheen Khan (Qureshi, 2008).These are some of the few names which the fashion industry identifies with.
Though the industry had been operating for quite a time, it actually got its institutional shape after the formation of the Pakistan Fashion Design Council. This council was an attempt by twenty five of the country’s top and established designers to create an infrastructure, a platform on which everyone could collaborate and represent their ideas and designs at the national and international level; a place where they could: * Give structure to the expanding vital industry. * To liaise with the government bodies on matters pertaining to excise duty, taxation systems, preferential tariffs for cargo etc., and to work towards creating a fashion districts. * To create an interface between the fashion industry and textile and crafts industry which are one of the most well-knit industries , which could revitalize them and in turn, benefit the designers greatly by incorporating ethnic methods of weaving, printing and ornamentation to produce up-market, contemporary creations of standardized quality and subsidized rates. * To address the changing needs of the industry as it evolves and of creatively show-case the work of Pakistani designers and find a commercial representation for them both, domestically and globally.(About Us, 2004)
Some of the attempts that the council made was the initiation of a Pakistan Fashion Week essential for business and trade linkages as well as for publicity purposes; studying the present distribution/reselling network to see how designers could benefit from it; creating a trend forecast for domestic and export markets, and standardizing the prêt-a-porter industry by having uniform sizing, accounting and labeling norms. (About Us, 2004)
However, the council’s main attempt to collaborate the efforts of fashion designers failed partly due to poor projection of their vision and partly due to the difference in the views of designers in the East and South –Lahore and Karachi, the main fashion hubs. This led to the creation of two distinct councils, the Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PDFC) in Lahore and Asian Institute of Fashion Design (AIFD) in Karachi. These two councils have carried out their separate activities despite unification efforts until lately. On December 1, 2007, a mall showcasing the creations of Pakistani fashion designers was inaugurated by the name of Boulevard in Lahore. It was forth first time in the city’s history that fashion designers from all over the country got to display their work under one roof (Rashed, 2007). Prominent designers displaying their work included Hassan ShehryarYasin, Maria B, Nomi Ansari, KamiarRokni, ShafaqHabib, Karma, ShellaRehman of Unbeatables, Ammar Bilal, Asifa and Nabeel, AhsanNazeer, SanyaQureshi, SobiaNazir, Nickie Nina, Sana Shahid of Sublime and NailaMaqbool. It is hoped that such a platform will amalgamate the vital forces of our fashion industry making it the hub of Pakistani fashion houses as is envisaged(Farooq, 2007).

How do you know what will be the in-thing the future?

The collections in Paris, New York and Milan, and now London, typically set the stage for the industry one year in advance. Though, I think the street is the real barometer of style.
A clothing style may be introduced as a fashion, but its use becomes a custom after being handed down from generation to generation. A fashion that comes and goes is called a Fad.
Processes in Fashion:

The fashion industry consists of four levels: the production of raw materials, principally fibers and textiles but also leather and fur; the production of fashion goods by designers, manufacturers, contractors, and others; retail sales; and various forms of advertising and promotion. The process of photography, branding, marketing the brand name and exhibiting on ramp in various fashion shows is what makes a production of cloth turn into fashion.
These levels consist of many separate but interdependent sectors, all of which are devoted to the goal of satisfying consumer demand for apparel under conditions that enable participants in the industry to operate at a profit.
Role of Media:

An important part of fashion is fashion journalism. Editorial critique, guidelines and commentary can be found in magazines, newspapers, on television, fashion websites, social networks and in fashion blogs. In the recent years, fashion blogging and YouTube videos has become a major outlet for spreading trends and fashion tips. Through these media outlets, readers and viewers all over the world can learn about fashion, making it very accessible.
At the beginning of the 20th century, fashion magazines began to include photographs of various fashion designs and became even more influential on people than in the past. In cities throughout the world these magazines were greatly sought-after and had a profound effect on public clothing taste.

Significance:

Pakistan Economic Survey on Textile & Apparel 2011-2012 * 50% of total annual exports * 38% workforce employed * 8.7% of GDP * US $7.2 Billion of Investment * 237 Registered Fashion Houses in Pakistan * Directly employ more than 71,000 people
(designers, managerial & sales staff, unskilled staff) * Most Value-added cotton-based product * 350% growth in the last 3 years.
In a broader view and unbiased analysis, the Pakistani fashion industry has certainly played a very constructive and optimistic role in building the fashion sense and fashion trends amongst all the age groups. Pakistani culture and traditions always have a huge impact on Pakistani fashion industry and the collections of famous Pakistani fashion designers, however, our designers, and experts have also tried to be unique and exclusive to use their imagination to design the unmatchable products, dresses and accessories.
The creations and collection line-ups of Pakistani fashion industry, that are purely culture oriented, received warm acclamation and gratitude from the fashion ramps from all over the world especially the western countries. The basic intention behind promoting Pakistani culture and Pakistani fashion trends through products and dresses is to mark our individuality in the fashion industry worldwide, tied along with our tradition and style.
Whether it is trendy shalwarkameez or chooridaar pajama, Pakistani fashion industry has always marked its elegance with classy outfits. Moreover, Pakistani fashion industry is doing an outstanding job as far as bridal creations are concerned. The bridal dress, lehnga, sharara and gharara have received a new charm and spectacular grace by amazing color blends and distinguished embellishments from many famous Pakistani fashion designers.

Trends in the Fashion Industry:

Pakistani dressing has similarities with Indian dressing because of pre-partition culture which was shared by these nations for thousand years but the religious factor was always there which makes a difference. The ShalwarKameez is the national dress of Pakistan and is worn by men and women in all four provinces Punjab, Sindh, Baluchistan, Khyber Pakhtoonkhwa and FATA in the country and in Azad Kashmir. Each province has its own style of wearing the ShalwarQameezwhich is worn in different styles, colors and designs especially the front part of Kameez is decorated with different styles and designs of embroidery. Pakistanis wear clothes range from exquisite colors and designs to the type of fabric (silk, chiffon, cotton, etc.).
Pakistani women have variety of traditional dresses other than ShalwarKameez but they mostly wear them in special occasions like Wedding, Engagement, Mehndi and other traditional ceremonies. Among these dresses Sari very popular and its each design and color seems unique from the other e.g. Lehenga Style Sari. Lehenga is another popular dress which resembles with skirt but a typical traditional dress. Gharara and Sharara are two resembling dresses which are often used in ceremonies. Farshi Pajama is an old traditional dress which is worn occasionally. Laacha is worn in Eastern part of the country; it’s a dress which resembles with Dhoti from its lower part.
By women's religious clothing we mean the dressing in which they try to cover all their body parts except face and hands while going outside from their home.Mostly women cover their heads with Dupatta or Chadar in outdoors but religious women prefer to wear Scarf, Burqa or Hijab and wear lose, long and full sleeve shirts.
Pakistani fashion designers are creating the fashion designs in accordance to the culture of Pakistan. Dress designs by these Pakistani fashion designers are in complete accordance to the purely Pakistani traditions and cultural values, which is the best way to promote tradition and culture of Pakistan throughout the whole world. Pakistan has a rich culture in subcontinent from thousands of years back and we cannot compare with any other country because culture of Pakistan is very unique and inculture of Pakistan we can easily find influence of different rulers who rules subcontinent.
With the passage of time Pakistani women have started to adapt new styles some of which are the combination of Pakistani and Western clothing. Like women wear Embroidered Kurta with Jeans and Trousers. Tight half sleeve and sleeveless shirts with Capri trousers have also been adopted.

PORTER’S DIAMOND MODEL

Factor Conditions:
Raw Materials

The Importance of Quality Textiles in the Fashion Industry:

Those who are in the fashion industry know for a fact that in order to come up with great creations, they need quality textiles. Fashion changes every season and more often than not, what may seem as the “in” thing now may be outdated in the coming days or months. Still, there are quality pieces of clothing that remains timeless, classic and stylish. This depends on the textile that is used to make this fashion piece as well as on the design. Textures, colors and materials are all important elements of textiles.
In the field of fashion, stylists and fashion designers rely primarily on textiles in order to set their fashion creations and collections apart from the others. There are even a lot of famous fashion designers whose products and creations can easily be recognized by their signature print designs. Over all, the fashion industry depends a lot on textiles for unique, high-quality and stylish pieces of clothing, accessories and other daily necessities.
Here some of main fabric properties that are taken into consideration for by the fashion industry: * Overall look of the garment. * Right formation of the garment. * Feel and fall of the garment. * Physical properties. * Color fastness of the garment. * Finishing properties * Presentation of the final produced garment.

Some of the problems that could be faced by silk garment manufacturers are as follows: * Shortage of imported silk yarns in the quantities required, as a result delivery is delayed. * Silk material is very vulnerable to stains during manufacturing process as well as stocking, staining results in rejection so a lot of care has to taken during these procedures. * Roll length of the silk yarn is often insufficient. * Color fastness of dyed silk material is sometimes not satisfactory. * There are also chances of warp breakage.

Cotton as a major raw material:

Readymade garments industry particularly "Fashion Sector", which ranks among the largest consumer goods industries in the world, is regarded as the most dynamic segment of Pakistan's cotton textile industry. It provides the highest value addition to our main cash crop namely cotton as compared to other cotton based items. Considering the export prices of all cotton based products it would be observed that the equivalent quantity of readymade garments would fetch a much higher price in the international market as compared to other items.
The industry mostly produces cotton and cotton blended skirts, T-shirts, bush shirts, children's suits school uniforms, shirts, blouses and maxis. These are mostly made of cotton blended cloth. Raw material for the industry is easily available. The major items which are frequently used by the garment industries include cotton and cotton blended cloth, lining, thread, button, zip, labels, and polythene. The raw material both locally produced and imported are readily available in the market. The sources of supply of raw materials are textile mills, wholesalers and non-mill sector. Some garment makers, have their own rooms to manufacture cloth. Such garment units produce special kinds of garments and mark them with their brand names. Payment of advance tax is a deterrent in expanding the export operations. Alternate mechanism should be devised for realizing income tax from the local suppliers.

Constraints of the textile industry:

There are many problems that are faced by today’s textile industry which directly affects the fashion sector. For fashion industry, highest quality cloth is the main requirement since this is a niche market which can pay for it. This industry can be categorized as a luxury item industry.
The cotton of Pakistan has a medium staple length due to which the cloth we get is also of medium quality. The designs can be innovative but for the growth of fashion industry, it is imperative to have a better quality of cotton as most of the apparel use cotton mostly.
Since textile industry does not practice much research and development and does not invest much on innovation of new seeds, better farming methods, or training its labor force, the backward and forward linkages are missing. The textile industry is mostly surviving on the subsidies of the government. So it can be said that the industry is dependent on it and cannot stand on its own feet after being there for such a long time, that now it is Pakistan’s mature industry but yet it faces threats from our neighboring countries and their industries.
Also the academia in textile is negligible. There is no master’s level education available that fits international standards due to which the labor is not skilled much in their practices. The youth does not come towards this sector for getting educated. The industry just passes on from generation to generation.

Labor

Being highly labor intensive, the apparel industry provides employment opportunities to a large number of labor force including both males and females alike. At present the industry is providing direct employment to over 150,000 workers while 100,000 more workers engaged in ginning, spinning and weaving are being indirectly provided employment opportunities.
The apparel industry also generates a high turnover rate with relatively less capital investment. This is partly due to the fact that a large part of it falls under the category of cottage or small scale industry. The machinery component is also relatively less capital intensive as it mainly comprises of industrial sewing and other machines which are increasingly been supplemented by indigenously produced/assembled sewing machines leading to import substitution as well.
Unlike many other high value added industries, the apparel industry poses no environmental hazards or pollution problems, a price which countries pay for industrialization and development. The captioned industry also provides an important means of diversification within the textile industry by way of converting indigenously produced cloth into a higher value added product namely fashion apparel.
Primarily being an export oriented industry with linkages and high value added contents, the cotton fashion apparel industry has an inherent growth potential particularly for an agro-based economy like Pakistan with cotton being one of its major cash crops. As indicated earlier, Pakistan's apparel industry has achieved commendable progress since its coming into existence in the Seventies by acquiring capability of producing high quality apparel both for domestic consumption as well as for the export market. We will also be able to go ahead with modernization as without inflow of technology things cannot be improved as desired.

Advanced Factors:
Importance:
Good fashion training can make all the difference and help an aspiring fashion professional reach his very best. There are many training programs meant to help aspiring models and the proper training can make an aspiring stylist succeed. Good training institutes concentrate on three important modules that are hands on experience or practical training, class room training and communication training. Students may also be taught people skills, interpersonal skills and networking skills in course of the training program.
Fashion training allows you to learn all there is about the fashion industry and these courses offer accreditations and certificates through which you can get a job or start your own fashion consultancy. Many training courses also offer internships or opportunities to apply for jobs with prestigious clients. Training can not only bring out the best in you but it can also help the world see, your hidden talents.

Fashion designing is one of the most glamorous and creative career options today. But here it is important that if you have artistic talent and high level of creativity then you should choose fashion design as a career. To become a fashion designer one should take formal education and training in fashion design. Today associate, bachelor and master degree courses are available along with diploma and certificate courses in fashion designing. You can choose any course as per your career your goals.
These fashion schools also gave rise to many other fields which are correlated such as textile design and jewelry design. Along with many fashion designers the industry has also witnessed a large chunk of jewelry designers and textile designers.
Many makeup artists also came out and now we have a bunch of excellent stylists. Fashion is something which comes from within but the job of these fashion schools is to polish your skills and talent. Pakistan Fashion schools are doing a great job in order to bring out new talent and platforms for them.

Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PDFC)

Pakistan Fashion Industry has seen a definite increase in the trend of fashion in Pakistan. One of the many reasons behind this fashion boom was the opening of many fashion schools offering bachelor’s degree in fashion design and related fields. In the past one decade many fashion schools have opened up, a few of them are very old but most of them are not as old. With the trend of these fashion schools it gifted the Pakistan Fashion Industry with lots of new talented designers.
Schools and Colleges such as BNU, Iqra University, Indus Valley, NCA and many others were behind the successful Pakistan Fashion Industry of today. PFDC has been the pioneer in these fashion schools and has contributed tremendously to the development of our fashion industry. They went on various international platforms to get our designers recognized. Today Pakistan Fashion Industry is known worldwide. Our designers have opened up outlets around the world and are a part of various fashion weeks every now and then. The concept of fashion week also evolved once our industry had a bunch of talented designers. Even today PFDC works like no other school they constantly keep their students engaged in many activities such as fashion weeks. They are encouraged to work with many renowned designers in order to learn from them.
PIFD focuses on developing the student’s innovative, analytical and technical skills so that they are aware of the different possibilities and are capable of creating and promoting appropriate products for the global consumer of today.

Fashion Designing Colleges in Pakistan
If you want to be involved in the Pakistani fashion scene, one way to get started in the field is to attend a program in Fashion or Textile Design. Admission is competitive, and tuition fees can be steep, so it's best to do your research and know what options are available.
Types of Programs * Fashion design schools in Pakistan offer several different types of programs. Bachelor's degree program options include Bachelor of Arts in Textile Design (BA), Bachelor of Design (BDes) and Bachelor of Science in Textile Design (BSc). A BA generally gives the student a broader background in the creative and liberal arts, while a BSc grounds the student's fashion studies in the sciences. At least one college offers a Master of Arts in Textile Design, and various short professional or foundational courses can be taken at fashion institutes.
Length of Programs * Bachelor's degree programs usually span eight semesters and require three to four years to complete, depending on the school's academic calendar. Most schools have two semesters per academic year, but some schools offer a summer semester as well. Master's degree programs usually take at least two years of full-time study to complete. Workshops can range from one day to one month, while some institutes offer a one-year foundational program. Summer is a popular time for short workshops.
Admissions
* Admission to most four-year Fashion Design or Textile Design programs in Pakistan is competitive. Some schools require applicants to take an entrance examination, and some schools require face-to-face interviews. If you are thinking about applying to a four-year program, you should contact the schools you are interested in to make sure you meet the admissions requirements. Some programs require A-level examinations in certain subjects.

Schools of Fashion

Schools in Lahore
The majority of Fashion Design and Textile Design programs are located in Lahore. * The National College of Arts offers both undergraduate and postgraduate programs in Textile Design. * Hajvery University's Fashion Institute of Technology also offers Bachelor's-level and Master's-level programs. * For students interested in a liberal arts education, Beaconhouse National University has a four-year Bachelor of Design program in either textiles or jewelry. * Linked with the fashion scene in Paris, the Pakistan School of Fashion Design also has a four-year program.

Schools in Karachi

Although more academic programs for Fashion Design are available in Lahore, Karachi is also a center of the fashion and textile design industry. * The Karachi School of Art offers a two-year certificate program and a four-year diploma program. * The Textile Institute of Pakistan has an eight-semester Bachelor of Science program that requires four years of full-time study to complete.

Apart from major universities, there are many small universities which offer 4 year bachelors program in fashion design as part of the fine arts department, e.g. the Government College University Faisalabad, hence making the sector a powerful one which has all the advanced factors needed for its success in education and research.

Pakistan School of Fashion Design (PSFD),

The preeminent Pakistan School of Fashion Design (PSFD), established in 1995, has now been transformed into a larger organization and renamed as Pakistan Institute of Fashion and Design (PIFD). The Institute is a federal organization incorporated under Section 42 of Companies Ordinance 1984, sponsored by Ministry of Commerce, Government of Pakistan. The institute is now awarded status as degree awarding institute by the Federal Government in 2007. PIFD is developing professional skills in students which they require to get a better job in fashion industry.

The Institute is affiliated with Ecole de La ChambreSyndicale de La Couture, Paris for Fashion Design Program, and with Mod’Spé a leading French school for Fashion Marketing & Promotions for School of Fashion Marketing, apart from other collaborations for student exchange programs for high standards and maximum exposure.
PIFD is now opening doors to career opportunities which were not available in Pakistan before, paving way for cultural and industrial development in the country.

Pakistan Institute of Fashion and Design is comprised of the following four Schools: * Pakistan School of Fashion Design (PSFD) * Pakistan School of Fashion Marketing & Promotions * Pakistan School of Textile Design * Pakistan School of Accessories & Products (Gems & Jewelry, Furniture, Leather accessories and Footwear)

PIFD focuses on developing the student’s innovative, analytical and technical skills so that they are aware of the different possibilities and are capable of creating and promoting appropriate products for the global consumer of today. School of Fashion Design now under PIFD has completed 15 years since its establishment. The School has a very impressive track record of creating successful designers. It has a major share in the league of designers extraordinaire in Pakistan. Most of the designers showcasing their collection in the Fashion Week are either graduate of PSFD or graduates working for different designers.

The PIFD student led fashion ensembles being shown at Fashion Week have been designed and finished by students based on individual themes. Pakistan School of Fashion Design’s courses have been designed, keeping in mind the local and international industry requirements in mind. The course is a four-year program the first year being the foundation year. Guided by a faculty of 18 outstanding Artists and designers, students here acquire the following disciplines.

Hajvery University

Hajvery University is committed to providing affordable and accessible quality undergraduate, graduate and doctoral degree programs, national and international in scope. Our commitment to providing affordable education is without the slightest compromise on the standards.
HU SFD has some of the most artistic minds of Pakistan coaching the Students to find their spark and polish their creativity much like a shining pearl.
As a leading independent fine arts & fashion Institute they have evolved a recipe for success: * Project work * My Gallery * Faculty and Research * Leap towards Internationalization * Outstanding Resources * HU alumni

Karachi School of Textile & Fashion Designing

Karachi School of Textile & Fashion Designing, established for the purpose of promoting higher education in the field of Art & Design and Management Sciences, and to bring a cultural change in the whole region.
National College of Arts Lahore (NCA Lahore)

National College of Arts has a historical tradition. Much of its present tone was set long ago when it was known as the Mayo School of Arts which was established to tribute Lord Mayo. Lockwood Kipling, who was a teacher of painting and sculpture, was appointed as first principal of the school.
Designing for Textiles covers a wide range of activities from traditional and contemporary craftsmanship to fashion and furnishing collection for interior design.

These areas also provide rich potential for research. Thus, not only do the students get a complex world wide industry experience, but in addition to that the diverse and wide ranging nature of its scope provides a fundamental creative basis to the textile designer or practitioner in the fields of fashion, art, interior designing, architecture, product design and television.

In this part of the world, the fashion industry is constantly changed by and dependent upon wide-ranging issues related to culture, politics and the economy. The inter-related cycles of these three areas present innumerable issues that determine both the perceptions and the products of textile design in Pakistan.

In the long run, it is for institutions like NCA to establish or discard some of these perceptions by setting a standard in design and designer/makers within this discipline nation-wide, and eventually, given the right circumstances, a standard of international level.
Following are the Departments awarding undergraduate degrees in their respective fields: * Department of Fine Arts * Department of Communication Design * Department of Ceramics Design * Department of Product Design * Department of Textile Design * Department of Architecture * Department of Musicology * Department of Film and Television
The programs include undergraduate, post graduate, short courses and professional diplomas. The College actively participates in organizing regular student trips within Pakistan and to neighboring countries. This enables students to discern the diversity and richness of Pakistan's heritage and its outreach within the region. Student exchange programs promote the sharing of collective histories of art and culture.

Indus Valley School

Located in the East Wing of the Historic Nusservanjee Building, IVS Gallery is established to promote art and art education. It is serving as a vehicle for artists to express their artistic and social concerns through various mediums and styles.
The IVS was granted an independent charter by the Government of Sindh in June 1994, thereby empowering it to award its own degrees. It was the fourth private institution of higher learning in Pakistan to be given degree awarding status. Admission to the School is strictly based on merit as determined by an aptitude test, an interview process and a weightage criterion.
The Indus Valley School of Art and Architecture is dedicated to much more than producing technically competent artists, designers and architects. It strives to motivate and guide students to think, be curious, to keep themselves open to sources of experience and learning, to be politically aware and socially responsive and take an independent position, respecting knowledge and people of knowledge, with humility.
Its three faculties focus on undergraduate degrees in the fields of Architecture, Design and Fine Arts, developing and training highly sought after graduates for the local industry. The studies are supported throughout the curriculum with Liberal Arts studies as well.
The Continuing Education Programof The Indus Valley School of Art & Architecture offers a wide variety of educational, business and professional programs for adults, families and the community in Karachi City. . Some of the most popular Workshop/Short courses of CEP include: Visual Art: Drawing and Painting, Sculpture, Ceramics and Filmmaking; Design: Graphic and Web Design, Interior Design and Fashion Design. These workshops/short courses are conducted by professionals who provide an enriching and unique experience for the participants. IVS also has added professional diploma courses recently to its continuing education portfolio.
The Indus Valley School of Art and Architecture wishes to reach out to a larger community and encourages the community to experience education by providing an interactive experience in these diplomas/workshops.

The Asian Institute of Fashion Design

The Asian Institute of Fashion Design prepares students to meet the rapidly changing and the growing demands of the international fashion and textile markets. At AIFD, technical expertise and aiming for excellence are an integral part of training. Students are taught to achieve the highest levels of skills and competence to enable them to compete with confidence in this day of globalization; where quality and professionalism are the prime criteria for success.
Realizing the importance of professional skill and expertise in the export industry the government of Pakistan encouraged professional training institutes to be set up all over the country. Aiming to provide professional education, competitive (at par) with international quality standards, Iqra University was established in 1998 in Karachi. Today its distinctive campuses are successfully operating in all provincial as well as the federal capital of Pakistan.
Management of Iqra University realized that the substantial growth of the fashion industry in Pakistan calls for unique fashion expertise. Hence in January 2000, Iqra University Clifton, Karachi, proudly enlarged the spectrum of study disciplines offered by founding Asian Institute of Fashion Design - an exclusively unique training center of professional excellence and technical competence.
Deepak Perwani: “The fashion scene by the AIFD puts the school definitely at par with the other schools. The previous fashion show by the students was quite spectacular.”
Sonya Battla: “I would like to congratulate AIFD for making Pakistan a leading contender for fashion flair by providing the right technical and design knowledge to the younger generation and giving them the confidence of being qualified and creative individuals.”
Admissions at AIFD, Iqra University in all programs are offered through prescribed procedure on merit to every eligible student irrespective of nationality, gender, ethnic background, creed, socio-economic status, cast or community.
AIFD's Fashion & Textile Design Departments provides students with the core skills and hands-on training to create an impressive portfolio and enter one of the most versatile professions in the fashion and design fields. The Fashion & Textile Design Programs develop the student's intellectual, artistic, analytical and technological abilities, integrating theory with traditional and digital hands-on applications. The programs are structured to provide students with the multi-disciplined skills needed to meet industry demands.
The curriculum of the Fashion Design program is to equip the students to confront the challenges of the real world of the Fashion industry while cultivating their own personal vision. They learn to solve problems for a wide range of different markets.
The curriculum of the Textile Design program is premeditated to evolve thought process and creativity which empowers the students with the imagination and competence to be individual entrepreneurs and to have the ability to perform in any segment of the industry.

Demand Conditions
With the national economy hit by crippling debts and a torrid political scene, fashion industry insiders hope the modern designs can capitalize on the country’s long-standing reputation as a global textile capital. People don’t realize how fashion industries contribute to the eradication of poverty, to social integration and to empowerment of women. Fashion is one of the main sectors, in Pakistan, which can help in recovering the economy.
These are times of economic recession and designers who are catering to a wider audience at a lower cost are probably doing better compared to those only doing specialized, high- end clothing. A wider range and lower-cost product actually does quite well during a recession.
The demand of fashion industry is on the rise due to many factors. With the world becoming a global village, ideas flow virally in a border-less world. Pakistan is no more an isolated, backward country when it comes to fashion. It is not only keeping up with changing trends in the international arena, but is in fact creating its own trends and introducing to the world Eastern Fashion labels. Luckily, thanks to the creativity and innovation of the major players in the industry, Pakistani fashion has a high demand, both locally and internationally.
Local wedding joras and formal dresses are now designed by professional designers with magnificent color schemes, fabrics and handicraft. While previously such joras were simply stitched by the typical "darzi", the wheels have turned and brides, grooms and other attendants of the wedding want exclusivity, quality and status symbol.
With rising standards of living, designer clothes are worn not only on formal occasions but also in everyday situations such as going to work, casual hang outs and dinners. The young generation is the biggest market of this industry. There are designers catering to all age groups and smaller non-professional designers that serve lower income groups.
Also, when you’re doing ready-to-wear clothes you have to think of a wider cross section of society. I may want to take the plunge of a neckline a certain number of inches lower but will stop myself when designing something ready-to-wear fearing that women won’t wear it. I won’t use a fabric I may love if it’s going to raise the price of the outfit too much. Ready-to-wear has to be done much more carefully.
The bridal industry is so competitive now; a designer may get 15 bridal orders in one month and then just three the next. You can’t depend on something that is so erratic. Ready-to-wear is certainly more substantial than made-to-order.
It’s no secret that the largest number of fashion buyers from all over the world comes to Paris. The Parisians have so far found our stuff too ethnic but the Arabs love it. If I’m going to invest time, effort and energy into a European market then I’m going to have to cut down on the time, effort and energy I spend on the traditional market. That said, what I learn there can be implemented here and that is what will eventually up the game.

Brand building
Fashion weeks have helped in brand-building and in making an international profile. Designers do get a lot of interest from international boutiques after each fashion week because it floods the Internet. Many buyers who haven’t even come may call with queries. People show interest from England and America especially, and from the Middle East.
Brand-building is serious business though I don’t know whether anyone has gotten a serious, lucrative deal out of fashion week yet. It is not bad for two seasons, though it will have to evolve into a serious business eventually.
The dying film industry of Pakistan took away the investors from Lollywood but the flourishing fashion industry is bringing them back as Indian, Arab and other foreign designers flock to hold shows in Pakistan.
Promotions strategy: written and visual reports for a design range, e.g. campaign plan, public relations, press releases, press packs, advertising media requirements, e.g. storyboards and point-of-sale materials.
Hence the importance of fashion brands is clear. Fashion Brands explains not just how fashion branding works, but how the fashion industry works. It looks at men’s fashion, the urban-athletic style, fashion knock-offs and trend setters.
Exposure is everything, and fashion magazines are the best way to get it. Despite fashion venues on the web and satellite TV fashion consumers are still addicted to those glossy pages; and fashion advertisers, too. Fashion houses court the fashion editors—sometimes through gifts of cash, gifts and trips—and the primacy of advertising in setting editorial content.
Models don’t play the role they did during the era of the supermodel, but they are still needed to give a brand a face. Models are there to interpret and enhance a product. The more flexible their face or body, the more easily they can create a distinctive image for the client.”
Another way to draw eyes to a fashion line is to enlist the popularity of movie stars. Many houses, particularly new ones, give actresses clothing to wear anywhere they might be seen and photographed. Stars, on the other hand, have to look after their own brand image. If they don’t maintain their look, they will be excoriated by the media.
Pity the upstart fashion house trying to make a name for itself in this expensive, advertising-driven world. Generally 80% of a retailer’s display space is devoted to well-known brands, leaving 20% for the wannabes. Stores cannot afford to take greater chances with unknown designers because they must maintain their own brand identities.
Customers want to find a certain type of clothing at a given retailer, and they expect to have a certain type of shopping experience. This last expectation is leading some stores, particularly those devoted to a single designer, to turn their emporiums into brand theme parks, where the architecture, demeanor of the sales staff, even food sold at the store restaurant all reflects a designer’s brand identity.
If a fashion show is little more than a live advertisement, then haute couture is the most spectacular commercial break of all.

The Importance of Branding in Fashion
Success in the fashion industry is more than just crafting beautiful designs, it's about selling. And the easiest way to sell clothing designs is with a good brand. Chanel, Gucci, Dior and Prada are iconic brands that immediately convey a message about the style and quality of the products.
A registered trade mark provides the best form of protection for a brand. Once registered a trade mark gives the owner the exclusive right to use that trade mark for their goods. A trade mark will be registered if it is able to uniquely identify and distinguish one company's products from those of other traders. If the trade mark is descriptive or closely similar to another trade mark, registration will be refused.
A designer should ensure that their proposed brand is free for use in the very early stages of developing a brand. They should also undertake searches of the trade marks register and the marketplace to check that they are free to use their proposed brand without infringing other’s rights. Given that the fashion industry in Pakistan is relatively small, infringement of another’s brand is not likely to go unnoticed. It can undo a lot of good work to have to re-brand a new clothing line just as you are starting to gain some brand recognition.

Uniqueness of marketing fashion

* Psychological Obsolescence * A short life cycle (selling period) * Long lead times * High product variety, low volumes per SKU * High demand uncertainty and variable demand * high stock-out cost * High inventory and obsolescence costs

Marketing Fashion
People no longer just buy products to keep them warm and covered. They buy them because the product can make them feel: MASCULINE, SPORTY, RUGGED, DIFFERENT, YOUNG, RICH, GLAMOUROUS, SUCCESSFUL and SENSUAL. Fashion business now is selling excitement rather than products.
The consumers’ idea of a product is fashion. It’s a perception of an experience offered by the product or service. It’s a promise that no other competing product provides the same benefit.

How are Brands different from Products?
Products (a shirt) are functional: * Concrete, Rational * Describes “What”: Generic * Limited life span: Transaction oriented * Easy to copy

Brands:(An Ammar Bilal shirt) * Emotional/Functional/Conceptual/Perceived * Describes “What” & “Who”: Unique, Distinct, Unlimited life span, * Relationship oriented * Can’t be copied

The Luxury Brand System
•Pure Creation, Unique Work, Materialized Perfection
Griffe
•Small Series, Workshop, Handmade Work, very fine craftsmanship
Luxury
•Series, Factory, Highest Quality in the category
Upper Range
•Mass series, Cost Pressure
The Brand
Cost pressure
Value Addition Process in Fashion Marketing: * Fantasy-Haute couture * Fashion pret-e-porter-Diffusion line * Style wear-Contemporary classics * Basic updated-Basic budget

How local demand differs from international demand
It’s not easy and sometimes it’s very tempting to just make clothes for the local market. Quality control is the biggest problem. It’s not easy to cater to the western market — you have to be a real perfectionist. What may be considered ‘wow’ and fantastic in Pakistan isn’t necessarily ‘wow’ and fantastic there. They’ve seen all the embroideries that they need to. At the end of the day it’s just good clothes with good price points and some sort of an interesting story that they’re looking for. We didn’t have a good time at Al Oojh order because finishing that stuff was a nightmare. We’re not used to it because we are not doing that level of finishing for our clients. Standards need to double and triple. It was satisfying at the end but not during production because master sahib [the tailor] is not going to get it. Also, the tailors smoke cigarettes, drink chai and the rooms where they work are not painted white. They don’t wear gloves and have no idea of quality control.

Exports
Pakistan has great export. We export knitted jersey and garments. We export leather and local factories have managed to set up infrastructures where they manufacture things under quality control. Designers need to up the level too.
Pakistan Fashion Industry is thriving quite well and making inroads in international haute couture as its rich heritage of embroidery and fabrics is a source of attraction for the high street fashion in the European markets. Noted Pakistani designer Hassan Sheheryar Yasin speaking at the Asia House here as part of “Pakistan Now” series of cultural events, told the gathering that the biggest satisfaction that he draws from his work is seeing “Made in Pakistan” labels on the high class fashion apparels being displayed and sold in international markets.

He asserted that with rich heritage of embroidery and fabrics inherited from the Mughals as well as folk culture, Pakistan certainly hold treasures for international market which so far remain hidden and unexplored to a large extent.

The culture of Pakistan has always been the focal point for all fashion designers in the Pakistani fashion industry. Whether it is dress or accessories, Pakistani fashion industry has always kept the aspect of pertaining to our traditional roots and heritage that are actually the main identity of Pakistan.
The main focus of the Pakistani fashion industry nowadays is the fusion of South Asian and Central Asian fashion styles along with the delicacy of eastern touch. We all have seen the flowing frocks to rule the fashion trends 2010, as many cultural practices have been inherited from Mughals and adopted by the Pakistani fashion industry for both summer and winter. It is undoubtedly the hard work and efforts of Pakistani Fashion designers and the whole Pakistani Fashion industry to introduce the pure eastern culture throughout the world. Through the exclusive creations and attractive presentation of Pakistani Fashion industry, the fashion trends and culture of Pakistan gained appreciation and positive reception from many fashion events around the globe.
According to Werner International, Pakistan's per capita consumption of textile fibers is about 4 Kg versus 2.8 Kg for India. Global average is 6.8 Kg and the industrialized countries' average consumption is 17 Kg per person per year.
During the year 2008-09, India produced 54,966 million sq. meters of textile and clothing. Only 22% was exported while the rest 78% was used for domestic consumption. Out of this, 50% was consumed by the household sector while 29% by the non-household sector. In comparison, Pakistan produced 9,015 million sq. meters of cloth in 2008-09, out of which 21% was exported and the balance 79% was available for the local market, according to APTMA statistics. This does not mean that we are similar to India, this actually means that 21% grey cloth (greige) was exported while the rest was lifted by the mills sector for onward processing, i.e., dyeing and printing.

Fashion Councils
The Pakistani fashion industry, though small, has a whopping four fashion councils vying to represent its needs. Two of these councils are relatively new. One is the Pakistan Fashion Council (PFC), which doesn’t really have any council members from the fashion fraternity – just stylist Tariq Amin manfully using his considerable clout and experience to organize entire fashion extravaganzas. PFC held its first fashion week last year in Islamabad. Then, just recently, we’ve been besieged by news of a fashion council having been formed in Peshawar. The National Fashion and Arts Council (NFAC) plans to highlight fashion, local handicrafts, arts and culture from the Khyber-Pakhtunkhwa region – a grueling challenge to take on in a province where a large proportion of the women opt to spend their entire lives under the veil.
The two older, more prominent fashion councils have their roots in Pakistan’s two competing fashion capitals – Karachi and Lahore. The Karachi-based FP started off with high hopes. More than a year ago, the council pulled off Fashion Pakistan Week 2, featuring some of Pakistan’s best designers on the ramp and managing to earn a mention in the venerated September issue of Vogue. However, since then, the council has failed to deliver. Meanwhile, the Lahore-based PFDC, headed by the indomitable Sehyr Saigol, has breezed on ahead pulling off one fashion event after another, right on schedule, drawing international media coverage and attracting local and international retailers. Designer brands such as FnkAsia, Adnan Pardesy, Rizwanullah and Zaheer Abbas had hitherto been a part of FPW2. This spring, though, faced with the Karachi council’s continuous delays, they opted to showcase their work on the PFDC ramps instead, too much acclaim.
The Pakistani fashion industry is relatively new and our designers don’t, as yet, have huge production capacities. There’s no point in over-exposing them through multiple fashion weeks organized by multiple councils. One council is more than enough to bring in business for Pakistani fashion. The PFDC, so far, has been doing a good enough job and I support them. They have good leadership and a solid, efficient infrastructure.

Related and Supporting Industries:
Textile:
i) Cotton Spinning Sector
The Spinning Sector is the most important segment in the hierarchy of textile production. At present, it is comprised of 521 textile units (50 composite units and 471 spinning units) with10.1 Million spindles and 114 thousand rotors in operation with capacity utilization of 89percent and 60 percent respectively, during July – March, 2008-09. ii) Cloth Sector
The pattern of Cloth Production is different than spinning sector. There are three different sub sectors in weaving via, Integrated, Independent Weaving Units, and Power Loom Units. There is investment in the shuttle-less looms both in integrated and independent weaving sector. This trend is likely to intensify in the country. The Power Loom Sector have modernized and registered a phenomenal growth over the last two decades. The growth of power loom sector is due to favorable Government Policies as well as Market forces. This sector is producing comparatively low value added Grey Cloth of mostly inferior quality. Problems of the power loom sector revolve mainly around the poor technology, scarcity of quality yarn and lack of institutional financing for its development from unorganized sector to an organized one. iii) Textile Made-Up Sector
This is the most dynamic segment of Textile Industry. The major product groups are Towels, Tents & Canvas, Cotton Bags, Bed Wear, and Hosiery, Knitwear and Readymade Garments including Fashion Apparels.
Readymade Garment Industry
The Garment Industry provides highest value addition in Textile Sector. The Industry is distributed in small, medium and large scale units most of them having 50 machines and below, large units are now coming up in the organized sector of the industry. The industry enjoys the facilities of duty free import of machinery and Income Tax exemption. This sector has tremendous potential. Exports remained under pressure.

Designing:
In the world of style & Fashion, there are many groups of devoted people, like the designers, models, stylist, etc, who are working hard in their respected fields, in order to make the Fashion Industry victorious.
But all of them always need some platform to facilitate and to admire their work. One of the outstanding platforms for their appreciation is the ‘Fashion Shows’. Fashion Show is the place where these people showcase their designed work in their own unique way. Pakistani Fashion Shows are also providing their talented people, a well-defined display place to welcome and polish their creativity.

Modeling:
There are many reasons behind the success of the Pakistani Fashion Industry; one is the performance of Pakistani Fashion Models.
Fashion designers create/generate some Fashion statement, and Fashion models represent that statement in another interesting but effective way. Pakistani Fashion Models are considered excellent in this regard too; as they have got guts to show someone’s work with a nice & decent style. This might be the reason that the trend of Fashion modeling is earning importance with the passage of time as the Pakistani Fashion Models are gaining popularity, both nationally and internationally.
Pakistan is most probably the only country where Fashion models work even at the age of mid-3o’s or even 40’s; as Pakistani Fashion Models have learned the art of maintaining themselves.

Photography:
Beauty has many ways of expression; one of the catchy ways has adopted by photographers. Like other Photographers, Fashion Photographers captures the beauty but the only difference in that their nature of work moves around the Style and Fashion world.
Pakistani Fashion Photographers are also running marvelously on the road of success, not only among the list of other categories of photographers but among the globally renowned Fashion photographers. Pakistani Fashion designers have studied the art of photography from the big foundations, from all over the world. Not only have they got skilled at the theoretical knowledge and various different techniques of photography, but also the practical implementation of this art.
Now Pakistani Fashion photographers are utilizing their skills through a very unique manner and establishing the name of the country in the international Fashion market.

Stylists:
Stylists are the people with the God gifted ability of enhancing of the hidden aspects of the beauty of a person, and Fashion Stylist always remain a step ahead in this consideration.
Pakistani Fashion Stylists are also working greatly, according to the basic principle of this profession; which is the enhancement of good looks. Pakistani Fashion Stylists are well-informed about the talent of doing make-up and giving the person a change and stunning look. In fact, Pakistani Fashion Stylists are earning good name among the world reputed Fashion Photographers in developing different and dazzling looks.

Beauticians:
Fashion lovers, trend followers and admirers always remain in search of some beauty and style tips. Undoubtedly, in this fast era of competition, everyone wants to look different and elegant from the others.
Beauty and style tips help all the fashion enthusiasts to groom themselves. Furthermore, trend tips guide us that how to maintain ourselves according to the latest Fashion statement. Fashion Beauty and Style Tips facilitate us to polish our beauty also in order to have an up-to-date look.
Now we can easily get the Fashion Beauty and Style Tips many means, like from Print media, Electronic Media and Web-Media.

Fashion Event Management:
All the runners of Fashion and style world always need a podium for representing their creative & innovative work. Other then Fashion Shows, there are many other ways to showcase the designed philosophy of the talented people belongs to the Fashion Industry; like the Fashion events.
Pakistani Fashion events also provide their Fashion artists, a platform to display their imaginations and to advertise them as well. In fact, Fashion Shows falls under the umbrella of Fashion Events; other kinds of Fashion events include Fashion exhibitions, Fashion Parties, Performances, Fashion launches of the different Fashion designers, like the collection of designer’s outfits, jewelry, handbags, foot wear, etc.
By constantly arranging Fashion Events on a large scale, we can give a boost to our Fashion Industry in many ways.

Celebrities Gossip Shows & Interviews:
Celebrities are actually the shining stars of the Fashion and Showbiz Industries, they look nice when sparkle on the skies of the glamorous world.
People love them in their own way, and always want to know something interesting or personal about their darling celebrities. So in order to get something appealing, they remain in search of some Gossip or Interview. Through gossips and Interviews, people not only obtain the opportunity to know about the favorite stars, but also gets the idea that what’s going on, in the Fashion and Style world. In this era of information and technology, it is becoming easy to gain the information about the celebrities.

Jewelers:

The growing trend of modernization and fashion cannot stop designer jewelry. To market wonderful designs, jewelry designers come forth with latest jewelry trends.
Jewellery in Pakistan is seen as a unique ornamental thing to complete fashion apparel and enhance the overall look. As is used to enhance the beauty of youth, we can see a variety of gold jewelry, silver, copper and metals. Jewellery has a great demand for the celebrations of marriage in our jewelry and clothing are often attractive terms.
As people are more beauty conscious so when they welcome the other, they seemed to be involved in Gossip on jewelry and clothing from other ladies. So most people trying to buy jewelry and shoes under the weight of their designer dresses. Usually light is desired but the marriage, we can see a heavy variety jewelry to make them elegant.
This Jewellery gave them elegance. Gold jewelry is mostly used by Pakistan to show the wealth.Jewellery as necklaces, chains, earrings, rings, pendants, bracelets and anklets will create a unique selection and fashionable around the world. In marriages with jewellery, Langhe are the most sought after, the girls enhance beauty. All these cosmetics are the fashion. Thus improve under the Pakistan when Pakistan to anywhere in the world that cultural effects can play in their dress and jewellery. Shalwarkameez is our national dress code, which now are in different styles according to the latest trends in the world.

Shoes and handbags:

There are large varieties of women hand bags and shoes available in the market according to the latest fashion. Stylish hand bags for women gives the great look with matching dress during the parties and wedding ceremonies. Women are much excited about the new styles in shoes and hand bags and want to match the bags and shoes according to their dresses for special occasion especially for wedding. One can buy the bags and shoes from the famous boutiques in Pakistan where you can find the ladies bags and shoes in affordable price. Hand embroidered bags and shoes are very famous in the women of Pakistan. Leather bags and leather shoes are much famous in Pakistan and women love to wear leather shoes.

Film and Drama:

Dramas of Pakistan have always remained captivating. Latest Pakistani dramas are by no means lagging behind as they are keeping up the tradition. The fundamentals of fashion promotion can be examined within the commercial environment of the fashion industry: how it is built on non-essential products, passing trends and ever-changing demands.
Movies are created to provide refreshment and recreation to people. Not only for recreation, have they created awareness about happenings in our surroundings. But nowadays movies had a great impact on not only youth. Nowadays, creation of movie become completely commercial, nobody is thinking of the society them thinking only about money. A movie has a power to make the world and break the world. They can sell any kind of idea or concept to us through that so the tastes in clothing, trends and celebrity style is widely taught and thought of as being of a modern age if you follow the stars of a rising movie. So fashion tastes are highly linked to the film and drama industry trends.
Dyeing and coloring:

Professional laundry dyeing and coloring is a growing industry that is getting more exposure with progressing time. Professional laundry industry depends upon several factors. The major customers of professional dyeing industry are big hotels, restaurant chains, hospitals, prisons, and other all places with a uniform code. They are major consumers of laundry dye products and coloring solutions. Unlike retail customers that needs little amount of professional dye products for home use, these industrial customers need dyeing products in bulk amount.

The progress of professional dyeing and coloring industry depends upon the progress of their customer segment. These days hospitality industry is on the road of rapid growth due to sudden increase in Tour and Travel and other industries, all around the world. Same trend can be seen in Restaurant and fast food chain. The popularity of eating out trend and universal love for fast food has resulted boom in this segment.

One more reason can be the extra consciousness of people regarding fashion and cleanliness. Now people want to look best and portray the best in front of others. Be it their garments, or other textiles being used at home. Nowadays, even house wives want multiple set of sofa covers, curtains, pillow covers, bed sheets and other such cloths being used at home for different occasions. Now it's very expensive to buy different sets for different occasions, so they prefer dyeing or re-coloring their old set of cloths for cost saving. This is also a major customer segment for professional laundry dye products manufacturers.

Although the opportunities are bigger for players in professional dye products manufacturers, but there are some challenges too. One of the major challenges is to maintain the consistency in quality of their dyeing products. It is also important to produce wide range of dyeing products to cater all needs of customers. Color range being offered to consumers is also a remarkable point that every dyeing product manufacturer has to maintain. You will be able to attract more and more customers only if you have an impressive color range to offer your customers.

Pakistani Fashion Schools

The curriculum of the Fashion Design program is to equip the students to confront the challenges of the real world of the Fashion industry while cultivating their own personal vision. They learn to solve problems for a wide range of different markets.

Structure and Rivalry:
Major Players

Amir Adnan
In 1990 saw the evolution of men's fashion in Pakistan when Amir Adnan, a business graduate by profession, stepped out to realize his own individual style, at the same time translating it to the demands of a frustrated market. The need for a simple necktie took him to Italy where he trained and returned with an ingenious approach to reconstructing this basic accessory. The new image of the tie spoke for a new era of menswear in Pakistan. Packed with insatiable desire to design, Amir Adnan the Pakistani fashion designer was charged with energy to revolutionize mind sets and showed the senses of the modern eastern man. In 1992 he designed his first range of italic jeans; conventional denims block printed with a hint of ethnicity, and launched them in America.
Amir Adnan is widely credited with re-introducing the sherwani into modern fashion, and known as Pakistan's first international menswear label. Currently, Amir Adnan is the largest enterprise of designer clothing in Pakistan, and caters to an upper-class clientele. Among Amir Adnan's clientele are former Pakistani President Pervez Musharraf and former Indian Prime Minister AtalBihari Vajpayee. Amir Adnan currently houses its flagship store in Karachi (seven), with complimenting domestic stores in Lahore (two), Multan, Faisalabad, and Islamabad. International outlets include Dubai. His mission was to revive the Sherwani, the traditional long coat, which was buried with the lords and maharajas of yesteryear. The modern day man had adopted the western three piece suit as the only acceptable vision of grooms wear and Amir Adnan had vowed to change that. He had the vision to see that it was our indigenous craft and attire which would help us make it to the international map of fashion. Today, almost a decade later, Amir Adnan's design philosophy has evolved clearly, marking itself permanently on the map. His is the largest enterprise of designer clothing in Pakistan, creating retail and manufacturing structure that can rival an international competitor.
Amir Adnan's main forte is hand embellishment, using fine silk or metal thread and incorporating precious and semiprecious stone, sequins, beads and other items of ornamentation to give every ensemble an unmatched exclusivity. The method of embroidery used in all products is 16-18 stitches per inches, which provides a neater, flatter and stronger seam. All products are equipped with pearl stitch buttons for a better look and durability. A wide assortment of fabrics is used for both local and international markets.
Amir Adnan innovates by using different types of precious stones, sequences. Every week, Amir’s designers produce 7-8 new designs. The basic variation is brought about by the weather which decides the type of fabrics and color schemes are used.
Fabrics, precious stones, sequins, beads and metal threads used in embroidery are imported; also imported are the sewing machines which are required on a yearly basis. As per demand, the clothes are exported to retail outlets in Dubai and Sharjah. Clothes are also exported to the western world for different exhibitions held there.
The products on offer are Sherwani, traditional Long Coats, ShalwarKamiz, Ties and children wear.
MARIA B
Maria B (real name: Maria Butt) is a fashion designer in Pakistan. Maria B grew up in a Kashmir household, both parents hailing from Kashmir. She was always interested in fashion. MARIA.B DESIGNS (PVT) LTD is the largest manufacturer and retailer of women’s fashion garments in Pakistan, with a large clientele in the US and Europe. The company was set up in 1998 by Maria, after she graduated from PSFD (Pakistan School of Fashion Design), affiliated with La ChambreSyndicale de Parissiene (Paris). She graduated with honors securing the top position in all four years of studies. In1997 Maria won an international fashion competition held in Belgium called “Les Etoilesde la Mode”. Here she was also named as one of the three upcoming designers in the world. After studying the strict Parisians “Haute Couture” and Prêt-a-Porter courses she created MARIA.B, Pakistan’s first professional fashion house.
MARIA B was the first Design House in Pakistan to hire a team or professionally trained fashion designers, textile artists and production managers to run the company on professional lines. Today Maria B possesses not only a professional design team, but also Production, Management Information Systems and General Management teams. Maria B has opened outlets (boutique) in Karachi, Lahore, Rawalpindi and Islamabad and is on her way to open one in London too. The professional approach ensures the timely delivery of garments to 4 outlets in Pakistan.
Recognized by BBC, in 2002, over a three month running program for Asian woman as the preferred label for modern professional working woman of Pakistan, Maria B has been hailed as the pioneer in redefining woman’s fashion modernity in Pakistan. (Randhawa)
Today, after more than ten years in business, it is the largest fashion house in the local industry. Her company has risen and surpassed the semblance of mediocrity. A trend setter as Maria B. has always been, she is even more passionate and daring to set trends for the future and believes that she can go further than others in bringing Pakistan on the world map of fashion. (Randhawa) “You have to aim high – and I do want to get to New York, Milan and Paris one day.” – Maria B. (Maria B. - Fashion Designer)
Maria B has a diverse product line: 1. Mafia
This line mostly covers pure cottons, khaddar, lawn, linens and embroidered cottons. This line offers ready to wear and trendy clothes with affordability. 2. Semi Formals and Formals
Semi Formal line is evening wear, slightly more formal and covers Resham, crystals chiffon, silks and georgette with fine embroideries. Formals however, offer perfect dressing for wedding needs, this line consists of silks, Jamahwars and heavy hand embroideries in crystals and salmadapka (traditional eastern embroideries). 3. Mgirl
This is the new hip and trendy line by Maria.B offering everything from clothes to bags and shoes to accessories. It guarantees satisfaction to the woman who wants it all. It caters to the fun and fearless and is certainly not for the fainthearted. Mgirl also introduces semi-precious jewelry for weddings, this jewelry in platinum coated with semi-precious stones such as topaz, Termeline, amethysts and zircons. 4. Maria B Bride
This is a pure couture line which is available only at the bridal studio in Lahore. It is a made to order line for brides and their families. 5. Maria B Lawn
Maria B Lawn is a summer line with trendy screen designs printed on lawn with chiffon dupattas.
Maria B prioritizes quality and uniqueness. To deliver on this promise, fabric, precious stones and footwear items are imported from USA, Germany, Italy, Thailand and India. Maria B is also exporting her various products for modeling, bridal wear and casual clothes to distributors in UAE, UK and India.
Junaid Jamshed
Junaid Jamshed has built a name and goodwill in the market as a fashion designer wear outlet for men and women with a unique range of products. Junaid Jamshed helps people build an elegant image that is in sync with their cultural and social values. Junaid Jamshed's fashion outlet was founded in 2002 and is headquartered in Karachi, KurtaGali. The other 14 outlets are spread across Pakistan in all major cities including Rawalpindi, Islamabad, Lahore, and Sialkot.
The main factory produces almost six designs in a week which is sent to design manger for approval by having a deep analysis on designs manger approve only two designs for production in a week. The rate of innovation is very high and by taking consideration of customers’ demands factory also made old designs also. After production in factory all readymade stuff sends to various branches across Pakistan.
As per customer demands, the fabric used in Kurta plus fragrances and footwear are imported from foreign countries. The products are also exported to USA and UK.
HSY (Hassan ShehreyarYasin)
Fashion designer Hassan ShehreyarYasin (HSY) is one of the biggest names in Pakistan Fashion industry. He was born in Lahore, Pakistan. He studied in Pakistan School of Fashion Design (PSFD) and graduated in 2000. The government of Pakistan has appointed him in the Board of Directors of the school as well and in the Executive Committee. HSY is the winner of Lux style Fashion designer of the year award 2005-6.This stylish dress designer has also launched his new studio in the highly fashionable district of Zamzama in Karachi. The flagship clothes designs studio of this fashion designer is currently in the cultural capital of Pakistan, Lahore. Started out in 1994, Pakistani Fashion Designer Hassan ShehreyarYasin worked both as a choreographer and Fashion designer in various shows within Pakistan and in international shows in Dubai, London, New York City, and Toronto.
In 2000, Pakistani Fashion designer HSY introduced his own fashion label, HSY. It started out as bridal and formal wear couture; today it is recognized among top South Asian fashion labels in the world, with six stores functioning internationally and flagship studio housed in Lahore. Among very few Pakistani fashion designers, Fashion designer HSY has won international acclaim. In 2003, Karachi-based Diva Magazine placed this Pakistani Fashion designer on the cover of their "Most Powerful People" and also as one of their 10 Faces of the Year.
Hassan ShehreyarYasin has approximately 14 clothing display centers worldwide one in United Kingdom, one in Saudi Arabia, two in USA, four in UAE, and six in Pakistan. In Pakistan, he has two in Karachi, two in Islamabad and two in Lahore. * HSY product line is: * HSY Wedding * HSY Couture * HSY R2W (ready to wear) * HSY Home * HSY Private collection * HSY Noir * HSY Active

HajraHayyat
Hajra Hayat (formed in 1998) is one of Pakistan’s most reputed fashion design houses. The brand’s inspiration has always been the strong, independent woman of today, whose elegance and femininity is enhanced by HajraHayyat’s classic royal creations. The brand’s collections showcase the best of couture which retail in Lahore, Karachi, USA, Canada and Dubai.
Fashion designer HajraHayyat is a versatile Fashion designer, she can design eastern, western, urban and many other types of outfits. HajraHayyat is famous because of her selection in color scheming which gives a very elegant look.
HajraHayyat designs comfortable and easy to wear dresses. She adds a new variety in the Pakistani Fashion Industry through her innovative designs, but even then, Fashion designer HajraHayyat maintains her basic style alive in her every launch. Using vibrant colors in her designs, she named her Bridal Collection 2008 “Rang De” which was a huge success and received critics’ appreciation.
Recently she also take a part in the PFDC (Pakistan Fashion Design Council) in which she showcased her bridal lengths, Pakistani wear, bridal cloths & bridal wear. She named her formal women's wear collection is “The Power Line” which is Inspired by the season and earthy tones. HajraHayyat is basically a Lahore based Fashion designer; but she has introduced her designing philosophy to the Fashion lovers of Karachi as well. She is becoming famous not only nationally but internationally too.
HajraHayyat’s product line includes: * Prêt collection * Formal * Bridal * Vintage
Her primary sources for import are Turkey and Japan for their comfortable and handsome raw clothes. She also exports to her outlet in Dubai and various fashion shows.

The fashion industry too, is influenced by external forces be they social, political, economic, technological or even competitive, which serve as a main driver for this industry. Moreover, relations with stakeholders – mainly suppliers, distributors and customers, and the strength and width of its competitors also define activities in the business. However, the relative strength of impact of these external factors on the industry varies (as in every industry) and is computed with analytical tools like Porter’s five forces model.
Nonetheless, fashion industry assures new arenas of growth and development; new opportunities for employment. This industry promises a different national projection that is serene and contemporary.
Maria. B. is one of the most well renowned brands of Pakistan. A company formed to revolutionize the tailor-culture of apparel making in our society. Maria B. is a brand that reaches to all sectors of both the traditional and urban female fashion demand through a unique combination of pricing and the diversity in the fashion lifestyles that she offers.
She is the only designer to have all the needs of different segments of the woman’s demographic covered under one roof. (Randhawa) She has been adopted by the modern Pakistani women along with the hip crowd as the latest cult label in recent years. This country previously never witnessed a true international prêt-a-porter collection before Maria’s infamous “ParisCollection” in 2001. Her clothes are a reflection of her own style. (FashionAvenue Quarterly, 2003.

How it formed what it is today:
A lot has changed and evolved in the history of fashion since the 1900s. As the century dawned, fashion was an exclusive enterprise, the pursuit of wealth. The average person in society settled for garments that were usually stitched at home. With time, however, networks of neighborhood tailors began to evolve into a retail history and the boom were followed by boutique selling.
The 1930s were influenced by socialism; communism and fascism and women’s fashion became more and more feminine in keeping with these conservative ideas. However, this period also saw the emergence of the culture of clubs and hence dresses became more body-hugging and colors went more deep and dark. The establishment of Indian and Pakistani cinema has proved to be the strongest influence on the fashion in the decade.
Due to western influence, the use of angarkhas, choghas and jamas had diminished considerably by this time, although the ceremonial pugdi, safaandtopi were widespread as ever. They had been replaced by the sherwani, which is still a standard item of formal dress for Indian and Pakistani men today.Even though women were accepting change, they continued to wear the peshwaz, kurta, ghaghra and odhni at religious and ceremonial festivities,which were even sometimes made of imported fabrics.
The 1950s saw the dawn of art colleges and schools and due to the freedom struggle and the adoption of khadi by Gandhi, the dying and handloom industries got more business. The 1960s was one of the most shock-filled decades of the century, as it saw sweeping fashion and lifestyle changes. Tight kurtas and churidars competed with mini-skirts abroad and at the same time, designers began to understand the need for cheaper, ready-to-wear lines.
The 1970s saw the export of traditional material with the result that export surplus was sold within the country itself and hence, international fashion came to the sub-continent. Synthetics became popular and the clothes even flashier. In the 1980s big money ruled. In Pakistan too, silhouettes became more masculine and the shalwarkameez was made with shoulder pads. The influence of cable TV became more prominent and the teenage market boomed with youngsters who were more fashion conscious. (Baig, 2004).
Mid 1990s and the beginning of the 21stcentury was marked fashion designers that changed the way fashion was contemplated. Designers greatly influence what direction fashion will go. These designers design and define future fashion developments. They are the trendsetters of change in a culture – through change in tastes and lifestyles of a community which is often characterized by changes in current trends and styles. And changes in fashion play one of the major roles in these transformations. The activities of these designers, collaboratively, form the fashion industry. The fashion industry of Pakistan is growing in volume with every passing day. The credit goes chiefly to the mainstream fashion people, who have been instrumental in this change. (Nisar, 2004) The industry has witnessed quite a mature spurt in the last two decades evolved from a traditional darzi (tailor) culture into a mature and cutting-edge business (Imam, 2008). However the status of fashion designers in our country greatly owes to the fashion institutions, particularly the Pakistan School of Fashion Design (PSFD)– now called the Pakistan Institute of Fashion Design which was played its role in bringing out the potential and imparting training to young designers who today enjoy a reputed name in the retail market. Some of these recognized names include Maria B, HasanShehryarYasin, DeepakParwani and Maheen Khan (Qureshi, 2008). These are some of the few names which the fashion industry identifies with. Though the industry had been operating for quite a time, it actually got its institutional shape after the formation of the Pakistan Fashion Design Council.This council was an attempt by twenty five of the country’s top and established designers to create an infrastructure, a platform on which everyone could collaborate and represent their ideas and designs at the national and international level; a place where they could: * To give structure to the expanding vital industry. * To liaise with the government bodies on matters pertaining to excise duty, taxation systems, preferential tariffs for cargo etc., and to work towards creating a fashion districts. * To create an interface between the fashion industry and textile and crafts industry which are one of the most well-knit industries , which could revitalize them and in turn, benefit the designers greatly by incorporating ethnic methods of weaving, printing and ornamentation to produce up-market, contemporary creations of standardized quality and subsidized rates. * To address the changing needs of the industry as it evolves and of creatively show-case the work of Pakistani designers and find a commercial representation for them both, domestically and globally.

Some of the attempts that the council made was the initiation of a Pakistan Fashion Week essential for business and trade linkages as well as for publicity purposes; studying the present distribution/reselling network to see how designers could benefit from it; creating a trend forecast for domestic and export markets, and standardizing the prêt-a-porter industry by having uniform sizing, accounting and labeling norms. However, the council’s main attempt to collaborate the efforts of fashion designers failed partly due to poor projection of their vision and partly due to the difference in the views of designers in the East and South –Lahore and Karachi, the main fashion hubs. This led to the creation of two distinct councils, the Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PDFC) in Lahore and Asian Institute of Fashion Design (AIFD) in Karachi. These two councils have carried out their separate activities despite unification efforts until lately. On December 1, 2007, a mall showcasing the creations of Pakistani fashion designers was inaugurated by the name of Boulevard in Lahore. It was for the first time in the city’s history that fashion designers from all over the country got to display their work under one roof. Prominent designers displaying their work included Hassan Shehryar Yasin, Maria B, Nomi Ansari, KamiarRokni, ShafaqHabib, Karma, Shella Rehman of Unbeatables, Ammar Bilal, Asifa and Nabeel, AhsanNazeer, SanyaQureshi,SobiaNazir, Nickie Nina, Sana Shahid of Sublime and NailaMaqbool .It is hoped that such a platform will amalgamate the vital forces of our fashion industry making it the hub of Pakistani fashion houses as is envisaged.

Political forces
These include any change in government laws – tax laws, labor laws, patent laws, government regulation and deregulation etc, political stability, safety and environmental protection regulations, international trade regulations etc. Changes in tax and labor laws, can directly affect an industry’s revenue and growth structures. A rise in the rates of these laws can increase business expenditures and may decrease revenues. Sometimes, with industries with low profit margins, such change can become a barrier to profitability. Political instability in the country in terms of political parties or weakness in governmental policy can prove chaotic for the industry. Under such conditions, this business, like any other business can be severely affected and eventually shut down. For e.g., national political parties like MQM and MMA reserve a very unfavorable attitude towards the fashion industry. In case of power, any of these parties can adversely affect or even lead to a ban on this industry which could prove distressful. Similarly strict trade regulations and excise policies can affect international exports and hence, increase the overall trade deficit. Environmental degradation posses a great threat to survival of any industry. Hence, being a socially and environmentally responsible corporation is an essential for projecting a positive public image.

Economic Forces
Economic forces that impact an industry’s activities include interest rates, income levels and earning patterns, price wars, oil, currency and labor markets, inflation, unemployment, availability of credit, fiscal policies, consumption and spending propensity – living standards, international trade and cooperation policies etc. (David, 2005)Nowadays, there is a growing trend toward two-income households. Individuals place an increased premium on time; immediate availability and improved customer service (David, 2005).Customers are willing to pay more if they can obtain it with ease. There is an increase in the average standard of living in the country with a decrease in poverty level of 10.6% during the past four years.This can serve as an opportunity for the fashion industry to enhance profit margins through ‘add-ons’ provided that the income levels remain stable. Changes in interest rates often occur due to changes in the exchange and trade market. A deficit in trade can account for rise in interest rates.
Similarly and rise in the international price of oil (as witnessed in recent years) can drastically impact the value of currency. This leads to changes in fiscal policy like an increase in the interest rate translated by inflation. High inflation can slow down business activities and at time generate no profit at all. However, in an economically active country with lower trade barriers, resultant price wars can increase competition and even and industry’s profit margins provided the industry is dominant as well as has international presence. Similarly, increased unemployment can provide an industry opportunity to project a positive image and provide training and employment to the depressed, hence positively contributing to the economy.

Socio-Cultural Forces

Factors in the socio-cultural front that can influence an industry’s operations include demographic trends, cultural changes, environmental patterns, population growth, business attitude, change in tastes and lifestyles, education, ethical concerns, buying habits, religion, family, values and attitudes etc. Pakistan is the world’s 6th most populous country with an estimated total population of 160.9 million. Out of this 74% of the total population of Pakistan lies in age group 15 – 34. However, 70% of the population resides in urban areas. (Federal Bureau of Statistics, 2005). With this came in increase in the literacy rate of the country which increased to 55% in the last four years (Economic Survey of Pakistan 2011-2012).Business activities have also flourished quite in the recent years, partly owing to foreign competitors entering the market. This has led to an increased change in the lifestyles and mindsets of people. There is an increased trend towards nuclear and dual-career families which serves as great opportunity for the industry as the buying power of the consumer is enhanced. Moreover, with change in lifestyles comes change in tastes. Nowadays people prefer using customized products and this is an opportunity for the fashion industry to pursue its target marketing strategy. Fashion industry is an industry for the youngsters. With such a large and lucrative target market, this industry can earn huge profits, provided it sufficiently focuses of their needs and interests. In view of this, fashion industry collaborated with the PBA (Pakistan Broadcasters Association) to launch a fashion channel worldwide by the name of ETNL (Style360 & OYE). Religion and ethical preferences too, play a major role in shaping strategies and marketing products, especially if one moves from culture to culture. Fashion industry in Pakistan, therefore has to take into consideration the limitations that ethics, culture and religions imply on clothing nationally as well as internationally.

Technological Forces
Though fashion industry is not technologically driven, but is has now become a necessity; especially if an industry or company wants to maintain competitive edge or tap into international arena. The focus of today’s industries is on mass customization as well as mass production which are not possible to achieve if it is inept in technology. Several factors impact an industry’s technological consideration. These are, Government spending in research, changes in Information Technology, Internet and Mobile Technology, energy use and costs, and international transaction costs etc.
Technology is one of the powerful sources of marketing in today’s era. The world is now a global village. Increase in technology, especially the internet helps cover a large number of consumers thus, helping a business reach a large target market in a short time span. According to estimates of 2006, the global internet usage accounts for 21.9% of the total world population with Pakistan alone, having a total usage of 7.2%. (UNDESA, 2006) This is a very attractive opportunity for the fashion industry in designers starte-selling.
International marketing (e-commerce) is one of the major contributors to world economy. It not only helps in the development of the business but also helps in the development of the country’s economy. However, any business before tapping into international arena has to go through various study and research to adopt proper marketing mix, physical evidence and performance before launching itself worldwide. It also needs to be aware of all the rules and regulations (cyber) of its host country. Once capitalized upon, e-commerce can produce great profits.

Pakistan's Fashion Industry Booming With Lawn Season
The spring season came with scorching heat and rising mercury but this weather has heated up lawn fashion in the city, depicting eye-catching billboards of the models and actresses on the roadsides.
The fashion industry witnessed a significant progress in last decades however the peak display of its potential and talent by its movers and shakers has become evident, when prominent designers and top models of the country entered the race of lawn prints to attract a huge customers’ base rather than elite class.
The city of Karachi observed a tremendous colorful series of events in its heart with fashion and economic activities have become hot and at one place with a concept of fan fair for hundred thousands of people.
Pakistan is the huge market and also Middle East and South Asian countries.
Fashion Designers are very optimistic about their business growth in the future amid much exuberance among the customers and fashion conscious women of the city.
Hundreds of thousand lawn prints and designed have been prepared by different showbiz entrepreneurs. Their suits cost ranged from Rs1600 to Rs 8,000 per piece depending on the quality and design of the dresses.
The lawn war is definitely not limited to fashion designers but leading manufacturing of lawn fabric are also present to competing each other such as Alkram, Sitara, Star, Gul ahmed and others. The lawn makers have produced millions of meter fabric on the occasion to meet the demand of local markets.
As per estimates, nearly 700 million to 1 billion meter lawn fabric are sold every year in the country.
These designers and manufacturers have supports of showbiz stars who shine to become brand ambassador of their product such as NidaYasir, Imaan Ali and ShaistaWaheedi. Being a brand ambassador of is a excited job to get paid Rs 1 to Rs 5 million for a year only to wear dress of particularly designer and fabric producer.
SaimaMehmood, Head of PR and Marketing Catalyst, explains about the emerging trend of fashion and lawn exhibition.
She said the fashion show and lawn exhibitions are highly attractive and exciting for women but these are not simple festivities. The huge ventures came true with huge investment of money to magnetize lucrative profit by the investors who failed to make money in stock, real estate and multiple businesses.
She said top designers of the country have emerged with talent and creative in a large number first time this year. They are giving tough time to each other while creating stiff competition among them on price and quality in order to make their sale point as hot as possible for customers.
There are a lot of designers and a lot of brands of all fashion industry champions but it is difficult for everyone to survive and build strong repute of their product in the market, where majority of the customers’ purchasing power is not high.
The fashion industry seemed to be widened to attach multiple sectors along it while giving business to different industry as well.
Hotel and exhibition points became platform of colorful people and shopping activities but sharing lucrative revenues of the fashion bonanza. From a five star hotel to a Expo Center, the charges vary from Rs 90,000 to Rs 150,000 depending on the space and duration of the exhibition. If 12 exhibitions have been taken place so far, there will be huge amount of income earned by the owners of these venues which used to be wore deserted look in the season earlier.
One after another, fashion designers booked venues having very limited in numbers for their events.
A window of opportunity for billboards owner was opened as they won a million of rupees prize bond, which they must not have imagined. Hundreds of billboards located on main roads and center places of the city.
These billboards owners charged Rs 300,000 to Rs 700,000 for providing a catchy look to designer portraits to millions of masses. Most of the designers have booked hoarding for two to four weeks on different roadsides and paid a big sum to vendors for advertisement and panaflex skins.
Newspapers and news channels were not a big platform to advertise these lawn prints but cable TV advertisement was once again a big channel for advertisement as against millions of rupees.
Besides, there are event managing firms, photo and catalogues makers and many side businesses were regenerated at length this year.
This fashion boom also brought handsome employment opportunities for young people particularly for glamorous and artistic jobs.
A good number of young girls have been employed as fashion designers, models and make-up artists since last year.
Interviews of different people of fashion industry revealed that these talented youngsters are getting Rs 20,000 to Rs 50,000 as per contract. Fashion models are on the top to earn handsome money among them with RS 35,000 to Rs 150,000 remuneration for each show.
Not only this but lawn has also heated businesses at boutiques and local markets as explained by SeemaShahid about her newly establish shop NEEMAZ. The lawn suits captured attention of the customers not only at big places but boutiques and shops of different entrepreneurs.
She explain that the awareness have increased the demand of customers on their dresses because of media education on fashion and dress style.
When it comes to the affordability and pricing of the fabric, there’s no doubt about the fact that they are offering good prints and fine quality fabric, as designer and entrepreneur includes famous names like Deepak Pervani, Nomi Ansari, AsimJofa, Hassan YaseenShahryar, Umar Sayed, WardaSaleem, YahsirWaheed, Sana Safinaz and Vaneeza Ahmad bringing boom in the industry, consumers getting more varieties prints and designs with quality but all theses targeting high class as now that they have increased the prices, keeping in mind what others have done too. The question then comes about the affordability and catering to the middle class, which does not seem to be manifested this time. They should lower the prices so that it is within the reach of the middle class to pay for the product, including Lakahni, Alkaram, especially GulAhmed which is definitely a household name and every house wants to buy its product

PORTER’S Five (Competitive) Forces Evaluation
Rivalry among competing firms
Fashion industry in Pakistan is yet in its progressing stages. It has moved ahead from being embryonic but hasn’t spurted. However, threat of competitors is still an important factor that govern the operations of this industry; particularly the rivalry between fashion designers of Karachi and Lahore in terms of ideals have prompted every company in the industry to strive to develop a competitive edge and nationally expand as large as possible. This is mainly because the few designers that exist at present are equal in size and capability. The internet is still not used as a primary source of doing business but there is a growing tendency among designers, particularly the established ones to use internet for trade purposes nationally and internationally.
Inflation and changes in customers’ perceptions and attitudes is also a driving force toward increased competitive rivalry. In the beginning, fashion designers pursued all their efforts towards bridal dresses. But as customers are becoming more and more aware and demand of branded apparel is increasing, these designers are finding new areas of development by focusing more on casual outfits. However, this industry is still not mature enough in its life cycle that price cutting could be a common phenomenon. There is not much time before these few designers are faced with increased competition particularly as standards of living become high and international designers set up their business in the country. Competitive rivalry in this case is comparatively high.

Threat of new entrants
Threat of new entrants in Pakistani fashion industry is high. This is because the barrier to enter this market is quite low because no previous experience is required to start doing business in apparel, customers have low brand preference and loyalty, too is low. If a customer gets a better option elsewhere and that too, for a lower price, s/he can switch to that option. Regulatory policies in the country are not very strong and hence achieving patents for a product or service is relatively easy. Moreover, the government itself promotes the setting up of new businesses. In regards to technological requirement, fashion industry does not require any cutting-edge technology to keep at pace. Therefore, if one needs to get into fashion designing, it is quite easy.

Potential development of substitute products
In an apparel industry, there is no substitute for clothes, but there maybe a substitute on the procedure of processing them. Fashion industry, too faces threat of substitute methods of processing. People, especially in a growing economy can easily get ideas from designer outfits and get them stitched through a neighborhood tailor instead of buying it from that very designer due to its high price. On the other hand, local tailors can give you the same design, though maybe not the same quality at a comparatively low price. Hence, the threat of substitute is high.

Bargaining power of suppliers
Bargaining power of suppliers is quite low in Pakistani fashion industry. The major raw materials required in this case are textiles and embroidery materials. These two industries – textiles and embroidery are one of the richest and profit producing industries of the country. Therefore a designer has the power and the choice to switch among suppliers and even negotiate prices as there are a large number of suppliers available to provide the same or even better raw materials at negotiable prices.
Bargaining power of customers
Bargaining power of customers is low in this industry. This is because there few choices to select from. Designers have their set prices that are quite high and fixed – they cannot be negotiated upon. If talked about competing brands, a buyer cannot easily switch to other options. Products are homogenous and the prices may either be uniform or else a buyer has to trade-off with quality of the product.
By definition, industry analysis is business research that focuses on the potential of a firm. Basically, an industry analysis is conducted to addresses three important questions: 1. Is the industry accessible—in other words, is it a realistic place for a new venture to enter? 2. Does the industry contain markets that are ripe for innovation or are underserved? 3. Are there positions that will avoid some of the negative attributes of the industry as a whole? (Barringer & Ireland, 2012)
A complete industry analysis of a firm will include its PEST-C analysis which will answer the first two questions, its Porter’s five forces analysis which will answer the latter question. We will also be analyzing the industry in the context of Porter’s Diamond Model.

PEST – C Evaluation
In this industry evaluation, P stands for Political, E – Economics – Socio-cultural, T – Technological and C – Competitive forces that impact the activities and opportunities and threats affecting an industry.
Political forces
These include any change in government laws – tax laws, labor laws, patent laws, government regulation and deregulation etc, political stability, safety and environmental protection regulations, international trade regulations etc. (David, 2012).
Changes in tax and labor laws, can directly affect an industry’s revenue and growth structures. A rise in the rates of these laws can increase business expenditures and may decrease revenues. Sometimes, with industries with low profit margins, such change can become a barrier to profitability.
Political instability in the country in terms of political parties or weakness in governmental policy can prove chaotic for the industry. Under such condition, this business, like any other business can be severely affected and eventually shut down. For e.g., national political parties like MQM and MMA reserve a very unfavorable attitude towards the fashion industry. In case of power, any of these parties can adversely affect or even lead to a ban on this industry which could prove distressful.
Similarly strict trade regulations and excise policies can affect international exports and hence, increase the overall trade deficit. Environmental degradation posses a great threat to survival of any industry. Hence, being a socially and environmentally responsible corporation is an essential for projecting a positive public image.
Economic Forces
Economic forces that impact an industry’s activities include interstates, income levels and earning patterns, price wars, oil, currency and labor markets, inflation, unemployment, availability of credit, fiscal policies, consumption and spending propensity – living standards, international trade and cooperation policies etc. (David, 2012)
Nowadays, there is a growing trend toward two-income households. Individuals place an increased premium on time; immediate availability and improved customer service (David, 2012). Customers are willing to pay more if they can obtain it with ease. There is an increase in the average standard of living in the country with a decrease in poverty level of 10.6% during the past four years (Economic Survey of Pakistan 2011-2012). This can serve as an opportunity for the fashion industry to enhance profit margins through ‘add-ons’ provided that the income levels remain stable.
Changes in interest rates often occur due to changes in the exchange and trade market. A deficit in trade can account for rise in interest rates. A deficit in trade can account for rise in interest rates. Similarly and rise in the international price of oil (as witnessed in recent years) can drastically impact the value of currency. This leads to changes in fiscal policy like an increase in the interest rate translated by inflation. High inflation can slow down business activities and at time generate no profit at all. The inflation rate in the year 2007-8 was calculated to be 10.3% as compared to the 7.9% witnessed in the preceding year which shows an increased inflation that disadvantaged business performance country-wide (Economic Survey of Pakistan 2011-12).
However, in an economically active country with lower trade barriers, resultant price wars can increase competition and even and industry’s profit margins provided the industry is dominant as well as has international presence.
Similarly, increased unemployment can provide an industry opportunity to project a positive image and provide training and employment to the depressed, hence positively contributing to the economy.
Socio-Cultural Forces Factors in the socio-cultural front that can influence an industry’s operations include demographic trends, cultural changes, environmental patterns, population growth, business attitude, change in tastes and lifestyles, education, ethical concerns, buying habits, religion, family, values and attitudes etc.
Pakistan, with a population growth rate of 1.8% is the world’s 6th most populous country with an estimated total population of 187 million. (CIA World Factbook, 2011) Out of this 74% of the total population of Pakistan lies in age group 15 – 34. However, 36% of the population resides in urban areas. (CIA World Factbook, 2011). With this came in increase in the literacy rate of the country which increased to 49.9% in the last four years (CIA World Factbook, 2011).Business activities have also flourished quite in the recent years, partly owing to foreign competitors entering the market. This has led to an increased change in the lifestyles and mindsets of people. There is an increased trend towards nuclear and dual-career families which serves as great opportunity for the industry as the buying power of the consumer is enhanced. Moreover, with change in lifestyles comes change in tastes. Nowadays people prefer using customized products and this is an opportunity for the fashion industry to pursue its target marketing strategy.
Fashion industry is an industry for the youngsters. With such a large and lucrative target market, this industry can earn huge profits, provided it sufficiently focuses on their needs and interests. In view of this, fashion industry collaborated with the PBA (Pakistan Broadcasters Association) to launch a fashion channel worldwide last year by the name of ETNL (Style Dunia& Youth) which is being launched soon in the country (Pakistan Broadcasters Association (PBA), 2012).Religion and ethical preferences too, play a major role in shaping strategies and marketing products, especially if one moves from culture to culture. Fashion industry in Pakistan, therefore has to take into consideration the limitations that ethics, culture and religions imply on clothing nationally as well as internationally.
Technological Forces Though fashion industry is not technologically driven, but is has now become a necessity; especially if an industry or company wants to maintain competitive edge or tap into international arena. The focus of today’s industries is on mass customization as well as mass production which are not possible to achieve if it is inept in technology. Several factors impact an industry’s technological consideration. These are, Government spending in research, changes in Information Technology, Internet and Mobile Technology, energy use and costs, and international transaction costs etc.
Technology is one of the powerful sources of marketing in today’s era. The world is now a global village. Increase in technology, especially the internet helps cover a large number of consumers thus, helping a business reach a large target market in a short time span. According to estimates of 2006, the global internet usage accounts for 21.9% of the total world population with Pakistan alone, having a total usage of 7.2%. (UNDESA, 2012) This is a very attractive opportunity for the fashion industry in case fashion designers start e-selling.
International marketing (e-commerce) is one of the major contributors to world economy. It not only helps in the development of the business but also helps in the development of the country’s economy. However, any business before tapping into international arena has to go through various study and research to adopt proper marketing mix, physical evidence and performance before launching itself worldwide. It also needs to be aware of all the rules and regulations (cyber) of its host country. Once capitalized upon, e-commerce can produce great profits.
Competitive Forces This force is recently introduced in the PEST analysis. Keeping in view the growing competition worldwide, analysis of one’s competitive forces has become an essential to success. Gathering information about competitor’s strategies and progress has become very important. Due to diminishing trade barriers, WTO, EEC, OPEC and collaboration with other world communities, national border are no more existent. Now every country is a part of a bloc. This in turn has fiercely increased competition as a result of lower labor costs, enhanced technology and internet facilities. Now production is done in one country, assembly in other, packaging and shipment in another due to advancements in transportation and e-commerce. Companies strive to achieve competitive edge as low-cost producers.
In such a rapidly changing environment with international competitors invading every country, keeping pace with, in fact going ahead of one’s competitors is the only key to progress.
However, it is essential to have a track of strategies and policies of an industry’s competitors but ethical concerns in gathering intelligence data should not be neglected.
Maria B is the largest fashion house of Pakistan. The company when formed was the first to start business with a retail outlet while all her competitors were doing business from home. Today, after ten years in business, Maria B faces competition from direct as well as indirect sources. A list of her direct competitors include designers like Hasan Shehryar Yasin, Rizwan Beyg, Generationz, Deepak Perwani, Nomi Shahid, Nikki and Nina, Sehyr Maheen Khan, Sonya Hajra Hayat, Nayna, Monica Piranha. With them there are indirect competitors too that pose a threat to Maria B. They include local textile shops, local tailors, and famous brands like Gul Ahmed and Bareeze that are dealers in un-stitched garments.

Comparison With India

Comparing Numbers

India's Fashion Industry Faces Challenges to Go Global
India Business Report, BBC.

Fashion, flamboyance and looking good have always been integral parts of Indian culture. The high-end of fashion was long the preserve of the country's elite. However, that is no longer the case. As the middle class grows, wages rise, and style becomes more accessible, the Indian market is turning into a place of great opportunity, for both local and international designers.
Lakme Fashion Week, the country's premier fashion event, has now entered its 13th year. Some 78 designers from across India converged on Mumbai, the country's entertainment and financial capital, to showcase their wares as part of this season's fashion week. From commercial collections to haute couture, experts say that by and large they put on impressive shows.
Rising Popularity
Event organizers say it has, over the years, witnessed a steady rise in attention from international outlets, fashion representatives and buyers. According to official figures, last year close to 160 buyers registered for the five-day event. This year, that number has risen to some 190. Of these buyers, 40 represent international firms and brands.
Organizers concede that these are not big figures when compared with the packs of hungry buyers and brand representatives that attend fashion weeks in London, Paris, Milan and New York. But when it comes to an emerging market such as India, it shows that companies and some of the industry's most influential people are watching closely, and expecting more.
Mainly Domestic
Anil Chopra, chief executive of Lakme Fashion Week, is convinced that deals are being done - though it is hard to ascertain exactly how much business is generated through such events because interactions between designers and buyers remain confidential. Much of the interest is being generated by buyers from the Middle East, according to Mr. Chopra.
The style and type of clothes that Indian designers tend to produce are well suited to neighboring markets that not only associate with the aesthetic but rely on India for such output, he says. When it comes to looking further afield, the production of garments for American and European markets is "not that significant", he adds. And that perspective is supported by the numbers: Some 95% of business conducted as a result of fashion week is domestic.
Dressing the West
Indian designers are renowned for their flair and attention to detail. Those that produce traditional garments are singled out for their ornate craftsmanship. Christian Leone, vice president of brand relations for online luxury website Gilt Group, says that while many of these garments are beautifully made, they remain hard to sell to even the most fashion-savvy clients in the United States and Europe. While buyers and stores may consider buying parts of traditional collections or outfits, selling them as a whole is, at present, difficult.
Essentially, international markets work on principles of commercial viability and wear ability. This makes the traditional Indian look hard to push on shop floors. The type of clients that Indian designers are trying to reach at home and abroad are very distinct, and both are looking for markedly different things.
Imran Ahmed, founder and editor of fashion consultancy website the Business of Fashion, points out that they have to be more decisive about which market they are looking to appeal to.
In recent years there has been a certain element of schizophrenia in the Indian fashion industry when it comes to picking what to focus on, Mr. Ahmed says.
Domestic Bliss
Indian designers have been trying to blend in western and traditional designs Mr. Chopra says that India's top designers have toyed with the idea of chasing foreign markets. However, the real money and prestige has always come from impressing domestic buyers. In his post-show press conference at this year's event, designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee remarked that he sells to around 17,000 clients every year. Given India's population this is not a big number.
However, consider the average cost of a Sabya sachi shalwar kameez, around $500 (£308), and it is clear that he tailors his garments to attract India's monied elite. Observers of the Indian market say that the growing wealth and disposable incomes of the country's middle and upper classes is creating big opportunities for local producers, particularly high-end designers. As a result, their need then to look outside India for haute, niche and commercial success is limited.
Going Global
There are, however, some designers that will always long for the runways of London, Paris and New York. And many of them, Mr. Ahmed observes, are young start-ups. For any fashion designer looking to crack the international business, knowing the statistics is critical, he says, insisting that for every 100 brands that are created only one is commercially successful.
Mr. Ahmed says that some Indian designers still struggle with the fundamental ideals of what makes an international fashion label successful: Professionalism, reliability, and quality. A major challenge that buyers and consultants foresee for Indian designers is that of supply and delivery.
Mr. Ahmed says that the international fashion industry is speeding up. Production processes are getting faster and lead times are shrinking. With the delicate production of most Indian garments, the question, analysts say, is simple: If Indian designers want to compete in international markets; can they meet these short deadlines and still produce high quality clothes?
The Indian fashion industry is still in its infancy. When pondering its potential growth, experts point out that India is where Brazil was 15 or 20 years ago.
They add that Brazilian designers are now gaining global recognition for their ability to serve both local and foreign markets well. The trick, however, is deciding who to create for and who to sell to. For Indian designers, the possibilities on either side of the equation are large: A domestic market with more than one billion potential clients, as well as an international market keen to see them combine traditional flare with Western commercial viability.
Stepping out
A raven-haired model slinks down a catwalk in Mumbai, wearing a tiny orange top trimmed with gold lamé. The garment, in a style usually worn demurely under a sari, is quintessentially Indian. Less traditional are the bare expanse of taut stomach, the skin-tight hipster trousers and the six-inch stilettos. Fusions of Indian dress and edgier Western styles were the most popular trend on the catwalks of Mumbai's fashion week, which ended on April 2nd. Only eight years after the country held its first fashion show, India's fledgling designer-fashion industry is stepping out into the international market, with silhouettes designed to appeal to the foreign buyers who are given the best front-row seats at the twice-yearly shows in both Delhi and Mumbai.
At Delhi's fashion week in March—a rival and larger affair, with 82 designers to Mumbai's 57—some 70 of the 150 buyers came from abroad. In Mumbai, more than 30 of the 150 buyers were foreign. They are not yet spending a lot of money. India boasts only a handful of designers that sell well overseas. In the past year several, including Manish Aurora, known as “the John Galliano of India”, have begun to show at Paris fashion week, the most prestigious event in a global fashionista’s calendar. But Indian designer-wear is estimated to generate just $50m-250m of sales in a market worth some $35 billion.
It is India's potential as a source of future design stars that attracts the foreigners. In Mumbai Albert Morris, a consultant for Browns in London, said he was looking for that “polished diamond” able to combine Western cuts with India's talent for embellishment—and its famously fine textiles. But foreign buyers complained that although the fabrics were gorgeous, the cuts were often poor, and it was difficult to spot a single trend amid the riot of styles, even within one show. Many Indian designers also lack the organizational skills and infrastructure needed to handle large orders. Veronique Poles, a fashion consultant from Paris, said producing half a dozen of the same frocks could be a stretch for some Indian designers, “and then getting it delivered on time—pah!” But as Indian designers attract investors; their business skills will no doubt improve.
Although many emerging designers have their sights on the global stage, their biggest and fastest-growing market by far is at home. Some 85% of sales at Delhi fashion week were to Indian buyers, who like more traditional sub continental styles. This presents a quandary for Indian designers and their financial backers. In Mumbai, even those who set their sights on the global market could not quite leave India behind. Narendra Kumar Ahmed, a rising star, sent his models onto the ramp in resolutely Western designs: dresses (pictured), structured jackets and trousers. But almost every piece was pink, a tribute to Rajasthan's “pink city” of Jaipur.
Current position of Indian Fashion Industry
India’s fashion industry to reach $187.5 million
Jenny Hodge
The Associated Chambers of Commerce and Industry (ASSOCHAM), the highest body of the Chambers of Commerce of India has estimated that the country’s fashion design industry is expected to touch Rs.7.50 billion ($187.5 million) by 2016, from the present estimated level of less than Rs. 2.90 billion ($72.5 million).The apex body also hopes that the sector will create additional employment opportunities for over 50,000 skilled professionals like fashion designer, merchandiser etc.The key reasons attributed for the projected growth include Indian companies’ heavy investment in the industry, readily available designer wear in the shopping malls, consumers shifting focus towards designer wear and exposure to western media.
In an analysis done by ASSOCHAM on “Indian Fashion Industry”, it has further revealed that the Indian fashion industry accounts for barely 0.3 per cent of the international industry’s net worth. Currently, the global designer wear market is worth about Rs 1800 billion ($45 billion) and growing at 10-10.5 per cent every year. As per the estimates, Indian designer wear commands a category engagement of 66 per cent for male customers and 57 per cent for female customers.
The category engagement in western designer wear is 5 per cent. Excluding western wear, the per capita per annum spends on designer wear for a man isRs 48,627 ($1215.6) and Rs 56,271 ($1406.7) for women. About 60 per cent of male shoppers and 72 per cent of female shoppers prefer shopping for designer wear in department stores. Comparatively, 46 per cent of male buyers and 38 per cent of female buyers vouch for exclusive brand showrooms.
Indian fashion industry has been lifting upward and day by day capturing more and more market in the world. Indian fashion designers not only designing South Asian cultural dresses, they even now have good repute in designing of modern western and casual dresses as well. Indian SalwarKameez dress is a dress that really reflects Indian culture. Today we have a gorgeous collection of Indian Salwar Kameez for summer season. All the dresses are really fine and have modern touch as well.
“Fashion in India is headed in a new direction - the male closet. The market is at a nascent state and dominated by traditional wear like sherwanis and bandhgalas, but it is growing very fast, say designers.”Not many Indian men know about slim fits, double cuffs and flat front trousers yet, but they are getting there.
"I think the Indian menswear market is far behind women's wear. It is going to take time, but if we compare it to the last five-seven years, men's fashion market has grown very fast. Guys are much more fashion-conscious now and want to look more presentable," designer Sanjay Hingu, who specializes in men's wear, said. Mumbai-based designer NachiketBarve, who designs for both men and women, feels the "fashion market for men is evolving but it is still in a transitory phase".
Surprisingly, India is the fourth destination in the world that hosts a men's fashion week - Van Heusen India Men's Week (VHIMW) and this clearly points to the growing market for men's wear. Designers like RaghavendraRathore, ArjunKhanna, AshishSoni, Troy Costa, Rajiv Mohan and ManovirajKhosla are known mainly for their men's wear line that is high on immaculate detailing, impeccable cuts and chic designs. SwapnilShinde feels it is important for designers to understand what men want.
"I just feel that there are not a lot of people who want to experiment and want to stick to classic, basic designs. If I do men's wear and that too come up with over-the-top designs, no one will buy them and I will be bankrupt. So I am not doing it," said Shinde."It's a bit limited right now, but it's growing slowly. But if you are able to understand the market and are offering good designs at affordable prices, men will lap it up," he added.
Hingu feels the majority of men buy designer clothes which are very Indian. “Right now only Indian wear is appreciated by Indian men. They are somehow not buying Western lines by Indian designers. I think we (designers) should come out with edgy, chic and sophisticated men's wear that is marketed well and fits their taste and suits their pockets as well," he said.
"And men too should opt for smart Western wear because they wear it more often than a traditional Indian dress or sherwani," he added. Sunil Sethi, president of the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) that organizes the three-day VHIMW in the capital, believes it is just a matter of time before men's fashion takes a 360-degree turn.
"The sole aim of organizing the men's fashion week is one can see how strong men's fashion wear is going to be in the coming years. There was always a niche section of men interested in dressing up and they too would be splurging on international brands," Sethi said.
"But the sole aim of VHIMW is to tap the men's wear market in India and promote designers who deal exclusively in men's wear, so that people know them and buy from them. Men too want to look good and hence the market will bloom," he added.
Likewise, Niranjana Adhya, co-founder of the Koslak brand, feels the men's wear market in India has huge potential.“Marketwise, male fashion in India is pretty good. I think males are getting more and more fashion- conscious. They want to have their own identity and want to associate themselves with some kind of aesthetic appeal. The market is there, you just need to tap it," said Adhya.
Opinion on Pakistani Fashion
In the last 10 years, Pakistan has seen a surge in the number of fashion designers showcasing their collection. So, the scene has become highly competitive. There have been fashion weeks both from Lahore and Karachi as well as a bridal week that is being held regularly for the last three years. All these factors help to build a strong base for Pakistani fashion.
He is not one to flaunt it, but designer Ravi Bajaj is one of the heavyweights of the Indian fashion industry. His reputation as a shy and recluse designer precedes him.
Ask him about the same and the effervescent designer quickly defends himself counter-questioning, "Who told you I'm a recluse?" I rephrase my question asking him why one doesn't see him participating in the various fashion weeks held in India and Ravi says, "I don't know if I am made for them." Explaining his stand he says that for him, a fashion week is equivalent to a trade event. "But the way they are conducted here, it's absolutely chaotic — the whole process, stalls included, is utter chaos and I cannot handle that."
Veering to the longstanding Bombay-Delhi fashion divide debate, I ask Ravi about his take on India having five fashion weeks, and he says, "One has time to indulge in this kind of petty politics only when they don't have work to do. My cash register is ringing and I am busy counting my money. I don't have time to waste trying to figure out who's doing what and which camp they are joining." He adds that most of this petty infighting and bickering is the result of the ever-growing number of Indian designers fishing for a very small market share.
So what is it exactly that's plaguing the Indian fashion industry? He opines that there is a problem throughout the system. "Neither are the designers organized nor are the retailers." According to him, while many designers are lax when it comes to deadlines, the biggest problem that stores in India face is the lack of professional merchandiser. "Indian fashion is run by housewives and that's the reality," Ravi says without batting an eyelid. He adds, "If business has to really improve and flourish, we need good and professional retailers, especially mid-level or boutique level retailing."
As for the solution, Ravi quite emphatically says, "A lot of people who are in it have no business being in the fashion business, they need to get out of it. That will simplify things. Currently, everybody has an opinion on fashion. But all this will change. It's going to get completely professionalized with bigger stores, bigger people and bigger players coming in."
Ravi is one of the fistful of Indian designers who is as — if not more — reputed for his men's wear as his women's clothing lines. He says, "Men's fashion will be the things to watch out for, especially in India." He adds that though the going is slightly tough right now, this is one market with plenty of potential. "That is why I continue to do it even though it's investment heavy and gives limited returns. I almost think that it's my responsibility to carry on doing men's wear," Ravi concludes.
'Indian fashion proceeding at breakneck speed'
"I think India as a nation is progressing at breakneck speed and this reflects in its fashion (sphere) as well. Where India obviously leads is with the artisan approach it brings to fashion," Christian Blanken said.
"India is a leader in beading, embellishment and ornamentation and other countries cannot copy or duplicate this; so i think India will continue to develop in this area. Also it has a massive and highly skilled labor force that is relatively affordable. I think this can power India to become a major player in this area," Blanken said.
Blanken was born in the Netherlands and grew up in the Far East and Britain. He graduated in fashion design from Central Saint Martin’s School of Art, London.
Blanken has worked with some of the most iconic and successful names in fashion industry. He debuted on the London Fashion Week ramp last year with his fall-winter collection and has since then been a regular designer there.
A number of western designers like Jean Paul Gaultier and Judith Leiber look to Indian designs as inspiration for their collection and Blanken says he too does so.
"Apart from Paris, which has a tradition of haute couture, embellishment and embroideries as part of their culture, India is the only significant country with these artisan skills and has, therefore, been massively important to many western designers. I myself have a few Indian embroidered pieces in my collection every season and I regularly work with Indian craftsmen," Blanken said.
He also added that with the way India is evolving as a nation, it will be interesting to see the country emerging as a fashion capital in few years.
"I think we will get a much better idea of where Indian fashion is heading in the next five years as it will develop its own identity with each passing day. I think Indian fashion will continue to develop at a fast pace as it is very dynamic, outward looking and ambitious; it will find its own feet year upon year," he added.
Blanken, who defines his collection as "very clean, luxurious and a bit tough," designs for both men and women. He believes that his passion for his work helped him achieve his goal and this is what he suggests to budding designers:
"To be a successful designer you need to have talent, of course, but also perseverance, determination and patience as it is a very difficult industry. Be sure that you are properly financed, that you have good production infrastructure and a good sales and PR team behind you. And don't be afraid to fail because you can always dust yourself off and try again."
Indian fashion industry lacks professionalism
Year 2010's Femina Miss India runner up and winner of 'Miss Beautiful skin', who later turned towards the modelling career, Saryu Singh believes Indian fashion industry lacks professionalism and a lot needs to be done before we can come anywhere near to the international standards.
"I am a part of this fashion industry for over 7 years, have done over 400 shows, and walked the ramp for a number of designers, but the way things are managed here are totally unprofessional.
From delays in giving the pay cheques, to making you work tirelessly, and to treating new models in a not so dignified manner, we need to learn a lot, "Saryu says on her recent visit to the Sangam city and adds, "If we want Indian industry to be at par with the international ones, we need such professionalism," She adds, but avoids to comment on anything/anyone specifically.
“The Indian fashion industry, with its talent, craft, textile and business sense, is luring the international fashion world with a vengeance, says Pakistani designer SaharAtif, who hopes for smooth trade relations between the two neighbors.”
"There's no denying that the Indian fashion industry and designers have managed to impact the fashion world over. They have not only impressed the world with their power, style and sensibility, but the country has a great understanding of the business dynamics of this colossal international industry," Atif told us in an interview.
"Its effective projection of itself as 'Incredible India' has aided in luring international buyers to continue their relationship with the country and extend business links with people of Indian origin," she added.Atif, who graduated from the Pakistan Institute of Fashion Design (PIFD) in 1998, showcased her first collection on the runways in 2010.Atif also set up the Department of Design and Textile at the Lahore Grammar School in collaboration with the Cambridge University. She currently heads the department.
IANS caught up with Atif as she is in the country as part of the Lifestyle Pakistan Expo, a four-day exhibition which started Thursday. Over 100 Pakistani lifestyle companies are showcasing their products and services at the exposition.She is here as part of her association with ChenOne, a chain of fashion and lifestyle stores in Pakistan, owned by the Chenab group.
Atif, who is a fan of Indian designers like Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Ritu Kumar, Satya Paul and KavitaBhartia, feels that the contribution of the country's design talent to the international market is outstanding. "Indian fashion and its contribution in international fashion are commendable. It's a pleasure to see sub-continental craft becoming a part of everyday clothing in the mass markets abroad."I'm sure that the way India is reviving craft and rural empowerment, soon we will see handicraft culture become a permanent feature in garments all around the globe," she said.
Atif believes India's reservoir of local talent and craft is a huge resource for international designers too. "For the global fashion Industry, India is a very big exporter of fabrics and accessories. All over the world, Indian ethnic designs and materials are considered as a significant facet for the fashion houses and garment manufacturers. "In fabrics also, India plays a vital role as one of the biggest players in the international fashion arena. We see the Indian fashion industry growing by many folds in next five years," she added.
Talking of her favourite designers in particular, Atif said: "Satya Paul made us realise that print is the name of his entire game. We hugely admire the sound understanding of cut and pattern reflected in KavitaBhartia's work and the business acumen she possesses to manage a multi-label store of Ogaan'sstandard."We admire Ritu Kumar for revival of craft and Sabyasachi for his ability to make cohesive thematic collections and a signature style very strong."Atif feels the Lifestyle Pakistan Expo will help in smoothening the trade tie-ups between the two countries.
"The demand on both sides for each other's products is so high that there is no stopping trade, which at the moment is taking place through alternate means.”Since the opening of fashion trade is bilaterally beneficial, events like 'Lifestyle Pakistan' will help pave the path to a smoother trade relationship," she said.
ChenOne, which is famous for its home furnishings and cotton lawn collection Pareesa, is spreading its wings by taking a leap in the Indian market.
Chennai tailors for Katy Perry
The entire world watched Katy Perry take the stage with bated breath at the IPL opening ceremony and she enthralled them. The singer conceptualized her entire performance herself, using her previous experience of being in the country. "Katy and her team of wardrobe consultants put together this act, which she was very keen to showcase as Indian," says our source from Katy's team, who adds, "The clothes for the dancers and were in fact put together in just two days on site by local tailors. They used fabric from here to ensure they were dressed in an Indian fashion."
Indian fashion going nowhere
TarunTahiliani is working overtime supervising the backdrop and clothes for his show in Milan on Sunday. He showed at the Italian fashion capital last year also, but he was not part of the Fashion Week. This time he is, and is doing a solo show.
An Indian designer at an international event became stale news some years ago. J JValaya, RohitBal and RituBeri have done it at the Paris Fashion Week. Others have held exhibitions and trunk shows in London and New York. Most came back saying the fashion capitals are in awe of Indian fashion. TarunTahiliani came back awed by the professionalism abroad. "The lesson we learnt is there extremely organized methods to these trades. Otherwise, there is no point in being there."
Professionalism is alright, but surely, there is something called talent also? This poser normally evokes the standard -– the Gucci’s and the Armani’s have been there for ages –- response. "Give us time and we will be there" is the collective mantra for Indian fashion. So we asked Tahiliani about the Japanese design greats -- Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, ReiKawakubo -- the trio which came in late but put Japan on the international fashion map.
"They worked for a far more affluent population. And there is nothing Japanese about their style, it works very well for the West," Tahiliani explains, adding Indian sense of color and styling is completely different from that of the west. "Here you do a four-inch long slit and people scream."
That's why you see a lot of sheers and open plackets in the TarunTahiliani collection for Milan. And yes, his last year's jeweled tees are there too. "People just loved them, but the stores were not ready to sell them for 500 euros a piece, since I am not a brand yet," he says.

Appendix
Questionnaire

Name of Interviewee ________________________________________________
Name of your brand _________________________________________________

1. What are the variables that determine the competitiveness of the fashion industry? a. Branding b. quality c. celebrity endorsement d. others____________________________________________

2. How do you judge the competitiveness of the industry?
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________

3. On a scale of 1-5 rate these elements in attaining competitiveness a. number of players ___ b. official status ___ c. government funding ___ d. trade fairs ___

4. What percentage of your product is exported internationally?
___________%

5. What deterrents exist for Pakistan in international trade: a. Price too high b. Quality not up to the mark c. Differing tastes d. lack of government support

6. What benefits does the Indian Pakistani industry have that Pakistan does not have?
____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

7. Is the industry moving towards diversification? How?
__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

8. How important is academia for the fashion industry?
__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

9. If you have formal qualification in fashion industry, please state the name of the institution and the degree.
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________

10. Do you conduct short courses and training programs in fashion schools is Pakistan? a. Yes b. No

11. How long has your brand been operating for? a. 1-5 years b. 6-10 years c. 11 years or more

12. How many employees do you have? a. 20 or less b. 20-40 c. 40-60 d. 60 or more

13. Indicate the institutes your trainees/employees belong to: a. ____________________________ b. ____________________________ c. ____________________________ d. ____________________________

14. What is the biggest threat to this industry: a. Plagiarism b. Incongruence of local and international tastes c. Changing market trends.

15. Please give recommendations for the improvement of fashion industry.
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Interview of Basharat Mustafa, Manager Production and Operations of Style360.

Q. Since when are you part of the team of style360?
I am with style360 since the time it was launched in 2008. I joined as an intern but now I am quite a senior member of the team
Q. Tell us something about the fashion industry of Pakistan?
The fashion industry has evolved tremendously in the past few years. I remember that 10 years ago there was no concept of fashion schools, fashion shows, there were a lot of cultural restrictions and today our designers represent Pakistan at an international forum. Today designers are the trendsetters, they are changing the lifestyle of people and the general population has become more aware of the fashion trends. From men to women, everyone wants to follow fashion to be socially accepted. Now students can actually opt to become fashion designers but in the past few years it was considered a taboo. The culture of tailors is changing and there is a huge jump in the purchase of readymade clothes, it is also because of the busy lifestyles of the people. Working women has become a common trend due to which women generally don’t have much time to go after tailors and get their clothes made.
Fashion industry took a shape of an institution when Pakistan Fashion Design Council came into shape. Some of the attempts that the council made was the initiation of a Pakistan Fashion Week essential for business and trade linkages as well as for publicity purposes; studying the present distribution/reselling network to see how designers could benefit from it; creating a trend forecast for domestic and export markets, and standardizing the prêt-a-porter industry by having uniform sizing, accounting and labeling norms. However, the council’s main attempt to collaborate the efforts of fashion designers failed partly due to poor projection of their vision and partly due to the difference in the views of designers in the East and South –Lahore and Karachi, the main fashion hubs.
Now we have PFDC fashion weeks, Fashion Pakistan Week, Bridal Couture Fashion week on yearly bases.
Q. How has Style360 and media played its role in the evolvement of the fashion industry?
Style360 is the first fashion satellite channel of Pakistan. Media is the means through which fashion is communicated to the general population. It helps in making the people aware and it also helps designer in receiving the recognition that they deserve for their hard work. Editorial critique, guidelines and commentary can be found in magazines, newspapers, on television, fashion websites, social networks and in fashion blogs. In the recent years, fashion blogging and YouTube videos has become a major outlet for spreading trends and fashion tips. Through these media outlets, readers and viewers all over the world can learn about fashion, making it very accessible.
Q. How do you see the future of the fashion industry?
Fashion is a big business. It has huge capacity of buying and selling and expanding further into the international market. We have amazing upcoming new designers such as ali zeeshan who is full of talent. I see a lot of potential in this industry, in the designers and have you noticed the upcoming models? I mean they can easily compete the international models now.
Due to globalization you see the borders are blurring, our products are not only required in the south asian countries but they are in very much demand in US, UK and Canada. I am also involved in this one of the International Fashion Festival that is arranged by Absolute Culture every year in Canada, in which our Pakistani designers and models are invited. I see the response of the crowd there and I can easily say that our industry has a long way to go.

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