Class: Wednesday 16:00
6/21/2013
FTH02/01
DEGREE
QUESTION 1
I hereby confirm that this essay doesn’t include any plagiarism and that it is my own work referenced according to the Harvard referencing guide.
Lenge Kotzé
“The Orient has helped to define the West as its contrasting image, idea, personality, experience.” (Said 1991:2) Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto were among the first non-western designers to be included in the official world of fashion since the revolution of the first Paris show in 1981 Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto appeared in. (Teunissen, 2005)
While Western dressmaking focussed on showing the natural shape of the human body, “by contrast, Japanese designers creations shrouded the body.” (Fukai 2005:22) Fashion in the West has mainly been based on creating the ideal silhouette and body shape through clothing. Japanese traditional clothing, in contrast, focusses on straight cloths of fabric namely the kimono as well as folding of fabric. (Teunissen, 2005: 15) Similar to their roots of the concept of the Japanese kimono, fabric is put on the body in “a manner that acknowledges the fabric’s two-dimensional nature.” (Fukai 2005:22) The result of this is the creation of drapes due to the excess fabric. (Fukai, 2005) Yamamoto’s 2010 collection consists of garments being created by the use of excess fabric to create dresses with volume, hiding the body shape – similar to a kimono. This concept of the body not dictating the shape of the garment can be seen in Miyake’s 2011 collection where the garments were created by staff folding pieces of paper into origami-like creations and then moments later models appearing on the runway in fabric versions of the folded creations, regardless of the shape of the female body being taken into consideration.
The shapeless, baggy dresses of the Japanese designers like Yamamoto breaks down barriers of gender which results in Androgynous designs.