Goffman's Gender Advertisement Analysis

MEDIA REPRESENTATION:
ANALYZING PERFUME ADVERTISEMENT BY USING GOFFMAN 'S THEORY OF GENDER ADVERTISING STEREOTYPES

Created By:
CLAUDIO S. 121211232049

PRODI S1 SASTRA INGGRIS
FAKULTAS ILMU BUDAYA
UNIVERSITAS AIRLANGGA
2014
1. INTRODUCTION Nowadays, if we go to big cities like Surabaya or Jakarta we will see so many advertisements like the advertisement of cigarettes, housing, property and so on. These advertisements using specific models in each of its advertisements, like the domination of males in the cigarettes advertisement and property advertisement tend to use females on its advertisement. Else when we go to the mall where we can see a lot more advertisement. At the mall we can see a lot of advertisement which is more specific like jewelry ads, sport ads, food promotion ads, automobile ads, and perfume ads. These advertisements also use specific models of its advertisements. Female models will adorn jewelry ads, where the female models portrayed gently hold the products. Automobile advertisements, where the male is the dominant model and usually the male is on the driver side while the female beside him. The automobile advertisement usually portrayed as a masculine advertisement, and it also happen in perfume advertisement. Every advertisement creator has their own ideology that persuades the viewers to buy their product. Producers do not merely ‘encode their media productions according to institutional or professional codes, but do so in the service of assumptions they make about audiences (cited in Media Representation by Goffman 1981: 241).They create the advertisements based on a gender to create affection to its consumer whether they are male or female. As in perfume advertisements also differentiate not only by the gender but also its themes, names, and the words. In the male perfume advertisements the model of the advertisement is male who is usually embraced by the woman. In the male perfume advertisement the product is not held by the model but usually placed beside the model. While in female perfume advertisement, the model is female who usually appear alone with the model hold the product on their hand. This dynamic relationship between ordinary, ‘real’ actors and media performers or productions is evidenced in a second study by Goffman of gender representation in magazine advertisement. Displays ‘establish the terms of contract, the made or style or formula for the dealings that are to ensue between the persons providing the display and the persons perceive it’ (cited in Media Representation by Goffman 1979: 1). Erving Goffman (11 June 1922 – 19 November 1982), a Canadian-born sociologist and writer, was considered "the most influential American sociologist of the twentieth century". In 2007 he was listed by The Times Higher Education Guide as the sixth most-cited author in the humanities and social sciences, behind Anthony Giddens and ahead of Jürgen Habermas.
Goffman was the 73rd president of the American Sociological Association. His best-known contribution to social theory is his study of symbolic interaction. This took the form of dramaturgical analysis, beginning with his 1959 book, The Presentation of Self in Everyday Life. Goffman 's other major works include Asylums (1961), Stigma (1963), Interaction Ritual (1967), Frame Analysis (1974), and Forms of Talk (1981). His major areas of study included the sociology of everyday life, social interaction, the social construction of self, social organization (framing) of experience, and particular elements of social life such as total institutions and stigmas. (Erving Goffman in Wikipedia) This paper will try to analyze some perfume advertisement by using Goffman’s theory of gender advertising stereotypes. Analysis in this paper will use the theory from Goffman of six conventionalized portrayals of gender display in advertisements. This theory will be applied in the analysis and explained further in the analysis section.

2. SIGNIFICANCE OF STUDY Every creator of the advertisement has message purpose to be delivered to viewers which is expected to make the viewers interested in their product. From the issue above, the writer of this paper is trying to reveal the implicit meaning of the advertisement and what message that the creators of the advertisement try to convey to the viewers. Viewers must know that they cannot see the advertisement as the way it is and must look deeper to reveal its meaning. From the research of this paper the writer hope that the viewers will know the true meaning of the advertisement, especially at the perfume advertisements.

3. RELATED STUDIES There are some studies has do so research that related to the topic of this paper. First research written by Sandra Tuna e Elsa Freitas in 2012 titled Gendered adverts: an analysis of female and male images in contemporary perfume ads. Her research uses some advertisement in perfume magazine ads of different brands which is gathered during 2010 and 2011. Her study aimed to detect recurrent themes, forms of representation and motifs as to the use of female and male images that can be found in the specific type of advertising. This study uses the understanding ‘content’ to include every component of the advert, according to Guy Cook’s (1992: 3) Second research written by Erica Lapton in 2009 titled Gender Advertisements: Replication of a Classic Work Examining Women, Magazines, and Facebook Photographs. Her research uses some pictures in modern advertisement and pictures from Facebook and analyzes them by using Goffman’s five coding categories: relative size, feminine touch, function ranking, ritualization of subordination, and licensed withdrawal to investigates modern commercial advertisements to update Goffman’s work an determine the presence of a new phenomenon, the mechanization of women and to find out whether women portray themselves in personal yet publically available photographs in the same way as women are displayed by others in advertising images.

4. RESEARCH QUESTION
How does man and woman portrayed in perfume ads through Goffman 's theory of gender display in ads?

5. ANALYSIS
5.1 Data Source The writer uses Google Image to provide some random perfume advertisements. The writer chooses Google Image because Google Image provides any kinds of perfume advertisements. Then the writer picks some modern perfume advertisement that suitable for the research.

5.2 Findings and Discussion In this part the writer will discuss about the perfume advertisements and analyze it by using Goffman’s theory of gender advertising. The writer divides the advertisements by the number of model:
2 advertisements that consist one female model in the advertisement
2 advertisements that consist one male model in the advertisement
2 advertisement that consist one male and one female model in the advertisement
1 advertisement that consist of group model in the advertisement

Image 1: Dolce & Gabbana, 2008

This advertisement is a fragrance advertisement by Dolce & Gabbana named “The One”, featuring Scarlett Johansson as the model of this advertisement. In this advertisement, the feminine touch from Goffman’s conventionalized portrayals of gender display in ads is dominated. The feminine touch is when women are often seen touching either objects, people, or themselves in a delicate, soft manner, with a bent hand or light pressing of skin. It is not manipulating or grasping something, but delicately outlining it (Noetzel, 2011). As seen in the picture above, the model represented as soft and gentle woman with the seductive pose. The model touches her red lips with bending her hand. The model wears silky sexy clothing added with red glamorous lips and blonde curly hair makes this advertisement look strong. The viewers who see this advertisement expected to be attracted by this advertisement that if they buy this fragrance, they will become glamorous, sexy, and feminine. The other theory that can be applied is licensed withdrawal. Licensed withdrawal is when women are portrayed as psychologically removed from the situation, implying that they must rely on others. This is shown with an averted gaze, a look of fear or uneasiness, or hands/fingers covering their face (Noetzel, 2011). As seen on the picture, the models averted her gaze / do not look straight to the camera. It is implicated that the model is alone, appear vulnerable, and feel not save without the presence of the others.

Image 2: Coco Chanel, 2009 The advertisement above is the advertisement of Coco Chanel perfume named “Mademoiselle” in 2009, featuring Keira Knightley as the model of this advertisement. Goffman’s Feminine touch is also dominating theory that can be seen in this advertisement. In this advertisement the model wear thin and transparent outfit and touching her lips. The model has pale white seductive and vulnerable looking face and also weak gaze to make her more feminine. Her body also not straight, bent down to the ground showing her weaknesses without the presence of the other.

Image 3: Dolce & Gabbana, 2013

The advertisement above is the advertisement about Dolce & Gabbana fragrance for men named “The One Gentleman”, featuring Matthew Mc. Connaughey as the model of this advertisement. On the advertisement above which shows the solo-male model it has very strong masculinity sense. The model has strong eye look, seductive and gazing straight to the camera. The male model in this advertisement also wears fancy clothes which are implicitly shows that this is how men should be portrayed. The background of this advertisement also show the wealthy house by the looking of the window and curtain which is shown that the male has a power and this is the picture of a gentleman. The color of the advertisement also darker than the female Dolce & Gabbana advertisement, dominated by black and white which is shown the masculinity of a man. The advertisement shows that the wealthy men is the perfect gentleman, so this advertisement can convince women that this is your ideal man and can convince man to purchase this product to have ‘beautiful’ woman.

Image 4: Gucci, 2014 This advertisement is a men perfume advertisement by Gucci, featured James Franco as the model of the advertisement. For the advertisement above, Goffman’s theories of gender display in ads that can be applied is masculine touch. The advertisement above has similarities with the advertisement in the image 3. Here, in the picture above, the male model has a serious expression. His face also looking straight to the camera while one of his hands gripping the steer of the car. The male’s model wears tuxedo and riding a classic car, showing his wealth and power, again this represent how men should be portrayed. It is implied that by buying this perfume you can follow his lifestyle. He has no sense of subordination, and also he facing straight to the camera so there is no withdrawal in this advertisement.

Image 5: Beckham, 2006 The advertisement above is a fragrance advertisement by Beckham, named “Intimacy Yours”, featured David Beckham and his wife Victoria Beckham in the advertisement. In the advertisement above, the Goffman’s theories of the portrayals of gender in ads that can be applied are relative size, feminine & masculine touch, and ritual subordination. First, for the relative size theory, it can be seen in the image that the male model is bigger than the female model in the term of size and height. The man seen bigger and taller than the woman in the image above which is represent that the male model in the ads have more power and control the female model who has smaller and shorter body. Second, for the feminine touch we can see in the image that the left hand of the female model, touch herself and the male’s model hand, while the other hand presumably touch the male’s waist. Here we can see the character of the female which is soft and gentle towards the male model, while the male model here, his right hand touch the female’s body and his left hand maybe on the female waist. His right hand which touch the female’s body implicating the domination and the advance of male model towards the female model, while his left hand which touch her waist implicating that the male can keep and make the female fell save which fill the role of guardian of the female where female used to feel not safe and vulnerable if there’s no male around. The last one is ritual subordination, it can be seen in the ads that the female model is placed lower than the male model. This implies that the male’s model have higher role than the female model. The female model that’s her view not looking straight to the viewer again implied his carelessness to the condition around her which makes her vulnerable. The male’s hand position which is at her bust, implied that the female model here is in the service of the male model.

Image 6: Rihanna, 2014 The advertisement above is the advertisement about Rihanna’s fragrance named “Rogue Man” in November 2014, featuring Rihanna herself as the female model and his partner as male model. Goffman’s theories of gender display in ads that can be applied in this image are relative size, the ritualization of subordination, and the feminine & masculine touch. First is the relative size. As seen in the image above, the man size is bigger than the female model, showing his buff body whiles the female body is smaller. In this ad it is very clear that the male model is seen superior rather than the female model. Second is ritualization of subordination. It seen in the ads that she is giving herself to the man by leaning over him showing her vulnerability and this pose can be define that this woman is sexually invited the man, showing her available and accessible. Also, the woman 's willingness and embraced the man, showing her reliance to the man 's figure. Third is the feminine and masculine touch. For the feminine touch, we can see in the image that the female model is kissing and leaning to the man from behind showing that the female is gently caring the man and again we can see the female’s gaze is averted. For the masculine touch here we can see the pose of the man which his hand are bending, showing his strength and serious looking while his gaze looking straight to the camera are the characteristics of masculinity in the ads.

Image 7: Armani, 2011 The advertisement above is the advertisement about the fragrance from Empirio Armani named Diamonds. In this last figure, the writer analyzes an ad of perfume that contains a group of people. Goffman’s theories of gender display that can be applied in applied in this image are relative size, the ritualization of subordination, and the feminine touch. First for the relative size, we can see in the picture that the man figure is bigger and taller than the woman. The man shown has more power than the women; it’s marked by the women who wildly touch the man, showing that they want the man and it’s connected with the ritual of the subordination theory. The females, who touch the male model, show that they find secure felling in the man’s figure. It is also can be interpreted from the picture that the man is sexually attractive in the woman viewpoint. By touching the man, the woman can be implied offering themselves to the man, mean the women in the service of the man. The other ritual of subordination characteristic that can be analyzed from this ad is the shot. We can see in the ads that the male model pictured full body in the advertisement, compared with the three other female models that just pictured half body. This is shown that the male model here is the important figure, the star and the focus of this ad while the other three females just the cameo which is can be assumed less important than the male model. The next theory is feminine touch. Shown in the picture that the females’ model in the ad gently open the man clothes, one touch his chest, like she want to open the cloth buttons. The other one grab his tie; while the last woman is carefully pull the man tux from behind. All of the three females’ models show the feminity, portrayed of how to become a real woman by loving and caring the others with gently.

6. CONCLUSION From the seven images above, the writer can draw a conclusion for the display/portray of gender in perfume advertisement is very typical for female and male. First, when the female model portrayed alone in the advertisement, their feminine side is very strong, showed by their position whether one of their body is bending, as in the example in the image 1 & image 2 where the model bending their hand and their body, implied they seductively the viewer. The models also touch one of the parts of their body, like their lips, waist, and knee which make their seductive position is stronger. The other characteristic that the female model has in the advertisement is their nakedness is exploited, whether they wear thin or transparent clothes or even completely naked as shown in the image 6. Second, their position in the ads is always below the male model. They shown weaker, depend on the male model and feeling insecure if there’s no male models around showed by their position. For example, in the image 5 where the female model accept the male model hug, implied that the male model giving her safety feeling and the male model can protect her. And in the image 6 when the female model leaning to the male model from the behind showing that she need him to protect him while it’s also can be implied she seduced the male model. For the male models, when the male model portrayed alone in the advertisement, they have serious position showed by standing straight, hold something with power, and do the man things. They also show how the man should be portrayed by wearing fancy clothes while they have luxury property. And when the man portrayed with the woman in the picture, they showing their domination towards the female models by hugging, grabbing and touch the female. They also show their strength by their buff body which it can also considered showing how the man should be portrayed.

REFERENCES
Jonathan. (2013, May 14). Goffman: Gender Advertisement. Wordpress Gender Display. Accessed December 23, 2014, from https://genderdisplays.wordpress.com/theory/
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Advertisement Information
1. Image 1: Dolce & Gabbana, The One, 2008. Retrieved from: http://lh3.ggpht.com/-x02P6j5-2uo/T4PXFKurUeI/AAAAAAAAGgA/9kr3EAPJNyQ/Scarlett%252520Johansson%252520Perfume%252520Ad%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800
2. Image 2: Coco Chanel, Coco Mademoiselle, 2009. Retrieved from: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/RF6lhgFqMVuWA_YTdvu_1o-Zll2vZHlFIelZcDaICCUjlePNOd5wX1BXcQ7g1cEGZUzDYpmYm1Bn4M6J2z9vQgXbzx58JNz2XOPZOuRYgH_JdaRdqMGo
3. Image 3: Dolce & Gabbana, The One Gentleman, 2013. Retrieved from: http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zaloDQf4AHY/T0Zsr6h0foI/AAAAAAAAALg/bumU6T2a9Vs/s1600/matthew-mcconaughey-dolce-gabbana-the-one-gentleman-perfume-ad.jpg
4. Image 4: Gucci, Made to Measure, 2014. Retrieved from: http://www.becauseiamfabulous.com/wp-content/uploads/James-Francos-Gucci-Made-To-Measure-Fragrance-Debut.jpg
5. Image 5: Beckham, Intimately, 2006. Retrieved from: http://images4.fanpop.com/image/photos/23900000/-Intimately-Yours-Fragrance-Advertisements-the-beckhams-23904692-1880-2560.jpg
6. Image 6: Rihanna, Rogue Man, 2014. Retrieved from: http://www.mimifroufrou.com/scentedsalamander/images/rihanna_rogue_man_ad.jpg
7. Image 7: Armani, Diamonds Black Carat, 2011. Retrieved from: http://images.hepsiburada.net/assets/Kozmetik/ProductDesc/sgarm0528119900-1.jpg

References: Jonathan. (2013, May 14). Goffman: Gender Advertisement. Wordpress Gender Display. Accessed December 23, 2014, from https://genderdisplays.wordpress.com/theory/ Noetzel, A Counsell, F. (2011). Gender Representation – Erving Goffman. Gender Roles and Advertising. Issuu. Accessed December 24, 2014, from http://issuu.com/fcounsell/docs/gender_roles Gender Advertisement Erving Goffman. (n.d.). In Wikipedia. Retrieved December 23, 2014, from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Erving_Goffman Advertisement Information 1. Image 1: Dolce & Gabbana, The One, 2008. Retrieved from: http://lh3.ggpht.com/-x02P6j5-2uo/T4PXFKurUeI/AAAAAAAAGgA/9kr3EAPJNyQ/Scarlett%252520Johansson%252520Perfume%252520Ad%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800 2 3. Image 3: Dolce & Gabbana, The One Gentleman, 2013. Retrieved from: http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zaloDQf4AHY/T0Zsr6h0foI/AAAAAAAAALg/bumU6T2a9Vs/s1600/matthew-mcconaughey-dolce-gabbana-the-one-gentleman-perfume-ad.jpg 4 5. Image 5: Beckham, Intimately, 2006. Retrieved from: http://images4.fanpop.com/image/photos/23900000/-Intimately-Yours-Fragrance-Advertisements-the-beckhams-23904692-1880-2560.jpg 6 7. Image 7: Armani, Diamonds Black Carat, 2011. Retrieved from: http://images.hepsiburada.net/assets/Kozmetik/ProductDesc/sgarm0528119900-1.jpg