I leap onto the hot, dry sand as it screeches under my burning feet, bolting with speed down to the water, so eager. The surfboard feeling heavy under my arm after trekking from home in the scorching summer’s heat. I dive in and it actually feels like heaven, exhilarating, yet I have never felt so alive. I paddle over a clean 3 foot wave rolling in and over towards my anxiously waiting mates, anticipating the next sets to come through. I finally get out the back of the waves and sit up on my board next to an old veteran male surfer, with a long grey beard, tanned and wrinkled skin like leather. We started chatting about our love of surfing. Our conversation went from how long he has been out for to his greatest surfing experience and just how much it all means to him. This is what it’s all about to me, not only the physical pleasures, but the fact that you belong to and relate to surfing culture. No matter who it is, your gender or age, surfing becomes a common bond.…