Hair Dye Research Paper
Thousands of people across the world dye their hair; dating back all the way to 3400 B.C.
when “people used extracts from plants or minerals that contained pigments like those of henna
or black walnut shells”("History & Future Discovery of Hair Dye."). In 1932, hair dye was
refined to create chemical reactions in the hair to change the natural structure and color of hair.
Cosmetologists are near a plethora of chemicals every day that include carcinogens and
mutagens they would never suspect. People who use products to color hair should know what
chemicals that are in the product, how they work and the risks they give to people who do not
use these products according to directions.
Hair is made up of three different proteins, keratin …show more content…
the same protein found in nails and
skin pheomelanin and eumelanin.
The ratio and quantities of pheomelanin and eumelanin create
the natural color of someone’s hair. “Pheomelanin is responsible for blond, red and ginger colors
while eumelanin is responsible for black and brown colors. The absence of either type of melanin
create white or gray hair colors”( Helmenstine). Hair has overlapping cells that become
progressively imbricated with continued growth, which are rich in cysteine.
Chemicals in hair coloring products have functions that first, prepare the hair to accept
the dye by opening up it’s cuticle, the outer layer of the hair shaft. Next, they alter hairshaft
biology in the cortex of the hair to maximize the color change by removing the old color,
melanin. Then, minimizing chemical damage to the hair shaft by replacing the meanin with a
similar structured aromatic amine. Finally, the chemicals set the dye to make the color change
permanent until the dyed hair is shed in the normal cycling of hair growth.
Common chemicals in these products include hydrogen peroxide which is known to be a
bleaching agent and ammonia which makes the fibers in the hair swell for better acceptance of
the dye. These two chemicals are crucial to permanent hair dye because of their functions …show more content…
and
their part in oxidizing melanin. The oxidation of the protein melanin by hydrogen peroxide is an
exothermic redox reaction. It is performed under basic conditions created by ammonia, which is
present in a powdered compound when bleaching hair or in a bottle or tube of hair dye that
consists of a mixture of aromatic amines, aromatic nitro derivatives, and phenols is added to the
hydrogen peroxide, known as developer.There are two reactions that take place when coloring
hair, the first is NH3 + 2(H2O2
) NH3 + 2(H2O) + O2 which is mixed immediately before
Then, NH3 + H2O + 18(O2
18(CO2
). “Ammonia, NH3
color to penetrate the cortex of the hair. It also acts as a catalyst when the permanent hair color
comes together with the peroxide”(Helmenstine). Peroxide is used as an oxidizing agent, in
which case, removes preexisting color and breaks chemical bonds, such as the disulfide bonds in
hair. As the melanin is decolorized, the new permanent color is bonded to the hair cortex.
Oxidation dyes, permanent dyes, are primarily aromatic compounds which belongs to
three major chemical families aminophenols (amino naphthols), diamines and phenols or
naphthols. These oxidation dyes are then categorised under two groups, oxidation base (primary
intermediate) and it’s coupler (secondary intermediate).
“Many of the organic aromatic amines used in hair dyes are strong sensitizers and
oxidative dyes should be used with extreme caution”(Lansdown). Hair dye's most common
oxidation base, paraphenylenediamine (C6H8N2
takes the place of the melanin in the hair shaft, giving it the physical properties of healthy hair
)+ C18H10N2O4
, is the alkaline chemical that opens the cuticle and allows the hair
(melanin) 3(NH3
) + 4(H2O) + 2(O2
), is very similar in structure to melanin and
such as color, shine and strength. Mixed with resorcinol for example, the oxidation base and it’s
coupler will create a specific color, in this case, a greenish brown. Some more examples of
oxidation bases include aromatic amines paminophenol, 1naphthol, and
4amino2hydroxytoluene. Couplers can also include propylene glycol, ethanol, glycerin. There
are many more chemicals that can be substituted to create many different colors, these are just a
aromatic amines and couplers that are found more often than others in hair dye packages.
Researchers have been studying a possible link between hair dye use and cancer for many
years showing risks “causing of blood cancers such as nonHodgekin leukemias and lymphomas,
bladder cancer and breast cancer”(Rivas). Researchers use 2 main types of studies to try to figure
out the main carcinogen including test animals and humans. Researchers may also expose normal
cells in a lab dish to the substance to see if it causes the types of changes that are seen in cancer
cells. In most cases, neither type of study provides enough evidence on its own, so researchers
usually look at both participant and subjectbased studies when trying to figure out if something
might cause cancer.
Aromatic amines, oxidation bases have been shown to cause cancer in test subjects,
usually when fed large amounts of the dyes over a long period of time. Many of the aromatic
amines called toluidines have been implicated in causing cancer, but orthotoluidine has actually
been confirmed as a carcinogen and has been banned from being used in hair coloring. “The
effect of benzidine on a strain of female rats sensitive to the induction of mammary tumors, a
cumulative dose of about 12 mg/rat gave 50% mammary tumors”(Ames, Kammen, Yamasaki).
Another type of study looks at cancer rates in different groups of participants, which
compare the cancer rate in a group exposed to a substance to the rate in a group not exposed to it,
or compare it to what the expected cancer rate would be in the general population. Sometimes it
can be hard to know what the results of these studies mean, because many other factors that
might affect the results are hard to account for. Hairdressers, barbers and beauticians represent an
important occupational group, with greater than 800,000 people employed in the USA. “These
professionals are exposed to thousands of chemicals contained in colorants, bleaches, shampoos
and hair conditioners everyday. Several of these chemicals, essentially those contained in hair
dyes, are potentially carcinogenic and some of them have been found in the urine of
cosmetologists”(Takkouche). In higher concentration and frequency than that of normal daily
exposure, in addition to the fact that they may be exposed to carcinogens contained in other
products than hair dyes, puts hairdressers, barbers and beauticians at higher risk of urinary
cancer. These professionals can accidentally ingest these chemicals by not wearing the correct
amount of protective gear and not thoroughly washing after applying hair dye. Participants and
subjects both showed a rise in urinary cancer when ingesting dyes. It is reasonable to estimate
that a woman undergoing one hair dyeing (with about 4 g of amines) could absorb as much as 40
mg (1%) of hair dye chemicals (precursors, products, and side products) through the scalp. Some
studies have found an increased risk of certain types of nonHodgkin lymphoma in women who
use hair dyes, especially if they began use before 1980 and/or use darker colors. The same types
of results have been found in some studies of leukemia risk.
A wide variety of carcinogens have been detected as mutagens after they have been
metabolized to their active forms. In addition to a potential carcinogenicity, many of the
compounds that are mutagenic for bacteria may be hazardous to humans by causing mutations in
the germline, DNA or RNA. A molecule including either a frameshift mutation, a genetic
mutation caused by a deletion or insertion in a DNA sequence that shifts the way the sequence is
read or a basepair substitution, a type of mutation involving replacement of a single nucleotide
base with another in DNA or RNA can be extremely dangerous to a person.
The aromatic amines all require activation with microsomes for mutagenesis; this is
characteristic of a variety of aromatic amine carcinogens. Nitrocarcinogens, such as
2nitrofluorene mutate the bacteria without microsomal activation though, the bacteria contains
nitro reductases which activate them.
Many hair dye components such as, pphenylenediamine, 2,5diaminotoluene, and
2,5diaminoanisole become strongly mutagenic after oxidation by H2O2
gives a very strong mutagenic response with strain when sulfur is present, which is located in
the hair. As mentioned before, it can be hard to know what the results of these studies mean,
due to many other factors that might affect the results that are hard to account for. Neither
subjectbased or participantbased lab study provides enough evidence on its own to determine
real threats to users. If the directions are properly followed there is a very low chance of
someone contracting any of the aforementioned ailments. People have dyed their hair
with
these and even harsher chemicals for over a century. While experimentation still continues to
be researched, safer, more effective methods of hair colorization are sure to arise in the future.
In retrospect, many people who dye their hair and believe it would be a good idea to
leave the for an extra thirty minutes to make the color look better, does not understand the
background chemistry of hair colorization. The knowledge of the oxidation of melanin by
hydrogen peroxide and a chemical vehicle can help many while coloring hair by understanding
it is important to only keep the dye in for the said amount of time and to wear protective
. Pphenylenediamine
covering. People who know the chemicals in hair coloring products, how they work and the
risks they can lead to are bound to choose not to abuse the product, listen to the instructions
and have a lower risk of getting hurt by any of the carcinogens or mutagens.
when “people used extracts from plants or minerals that contained pigments like those of henna
or black walnut shells”("History & Future Discovery of Hair Dye."). In 1932, hair dye was
refined to create chemical reactions in the hair to change the natural structure and color of hair.
Cosmetologists are near a plethora of chemicals every day that include carcinogens and
mutagens they would never suspect. People who use products to color hair should know what
chemicals that are in the product, how they work and the risks they give to people who do not
use these products according to directions.
Hair is made up of three different proteins, keratin …show more content…
the same protein found in nails and
skin pheomelanin and eumelanin.
The ratio and quantities of pheomelanin and eumelanin create
the natural color of someone’s hair. “Pheomelanin is responsible for blond, red and ginger colors
while eumelanin is responsible for black and brown colors. The absence of either type of melanin
create white or gray hair colors”( Helmenstine). Hair has overlapping cells that become
progressively imbricated with continued growth, which are rich in cysteine.
Chemicals in hair coloring products have functions that first, prepare the hair to accept
the dye by opening up it’s cuticle, the outer layer of the hair shaft. Next, they alter hairshaft
biology in the cortex of the hair to maximize the color change by removing the old color,
melanin. Then, minimizing chemical damage to the hair shaft by replacing the meanin with a
similar structured aromatic amine. Finally, the chemicals set the dye to make the color change
permanent until the dyed hair is shed in the normal cycling of hair growth.
Common chemicals in these products include hydrogen peroxide which is known to be a
bleaching agent and ammonia which makes the fibers in the hair swell for better acceptance of
the dye. These two chemicals are crucial to permanent hair dye because of their functions …show more content…
and
their part in oxidizing melanin. The oxidation of the protein melanin by hydrogen peroxide is an
exothermic redox reaction. It is performed under basic conditions created by ammonia, which is
present in a powdered compound when bleaching hair or in a bottle or tube of hair dye that
consists of a mixture of aromatic amines, aromatic nitro derivatives, and phenols is added to the
hydrogen peroxide, known as developer.There are two reactions that take place when coloring
hair, the first is NH3 + 2(H2O2
) NH3 + 2(H2O) + O2 which is mixed immediately before
Then, NH3 + H2O + 18(O2
18(CO2
). “Ammonia, NH3
color to penetrate the cortex of the hair. It also acts as a catalyst when the permanent hair color
comes together with the peroxide”(Helmenstine). Peroxide is used as an oxidizing agent, in
which case, removes preexisting color and breaks chemical bonds, such as the disulfide bonds in
hair. As the melanin is decolorized, the new permanent color is bonded to the hair cortex.
Oxidation dyes, permanent dyes, are primarily aromatic compounds which belongs to
three major chemical families aminophenols (amino naphthols), diamines and phenols or
naphthols. These oxidation dyes are then categorised under two groups, oxidation base (primary
intermediate) and it’s coupler (secondary intermediate).
“Many of the organic aromatic amines used in hair dyes are strong sensitizers and
oxidative dyes should be used with extreme caution”(Lansdown). Hair dye's most common
oxidation base, paraphenylenediamine (C6H8N2
takes the place of the melanin in the hair shaft, giving it the physical properties of healthy hair
)+ C18H10N2O4
, is the alkaline chemical that opens the cuticle and allows the hair
(melanin) 3(NH3
) + 4(H2O) + 2(O2
), is very similar in structure to melanin and
such as color, shine and strength. Mixed with resorcinol for example, the oxidation base and it’s
coupler will create a specific color, in this case, a greenish brown. Some more examples of
oxidation bases include aromatic amines paminophenol, 1naphthol, and
4amino2hydroxytoluene. Couplers can also include propylene glycol, ethanol, glycerin. There
are many more chemicals that can be substituted to create many different colors, these are just a
aromatic amines and couplers that are found more often than others in hair dye packages.
Researchers have been studying a possible link between hair dye use and cancer for many
years showing risks “causing of blood cancers such as nonHodgekin leukemias and lymphomas,
bladder cancer and breast cancer”(Rivas). Researchers use 2 main types of studies to try to figure
out the main carcinogen including test animals and humans. Researchers may also expose normal
cells in a lab dish to the substance to see if it causes the types of changes that are seen in cancer
cells. In most cases, neither type of study provides enough evidence on its own, so researchers
usually look at both participant and subjectbased studies when trying to figure out if something
might cause cancer.
Aromatic amines, oxidation bases have been shown to cause cancer in test subjects,
usually when fed large amounts of the dyes over a long period of time. Many of the aromatic
amines called toluidines have been implicated in causing cancer, but orthotoluidine has actually
been confirmed as a carcinogen and has been banned from being used in hair coloring. “The
effect of benzidine on a strain of female rats sensitive to the induction of mammary tumors, a
cumulative dose of about 12 mg/rat gave 50% mammary tumors”(Ames, Kammen, Yamasaki).
Another type of study looks at cancer rates in different groups of participants, which
compare the cancer rate in a group exposed to a substance to the rate in a group not exposed to it,
or compare it to what the expected cancer rate would be in the general population. Sometimes it
can be hard to know what the results of these studies mean, because many other factors that
might affect the results are hard to account for. Hairdressers, barbers and beauticians represent an
important occupational group, with greater than 800,000 people employed in the USA. “These
professionals are exposed to thousands of chemicals contained in colorants, bleaches, shampoos
and hair conditioners everyday. Several of these chemicals, essentially those contained in hair
dyes, are potentially carcinogenic and some of them have been found in the urine of
cosmetologists”(Takkouche). In higher concentration and frequency than that of normal daily
exposure, in addition to the fact that they may be exposed to carcinogens contained in other
products than hair dyes, puts hairdressers, barbers and beauticians at higher risk of urinary
cancer. These professionals can accidentally ingest these chemicals by not wearing the correct
amount of protective gear and not thoroughly washing after applying hair dye. Participants and
subjects both showed a rise in urinary cancer when ingesting dyes. It is reasonable to estimate
that a woman undergoing one hair dyeing (with about 4 g of amines) could absorb as much as 40
mg (1%) of hair dye chemicals (precursors, products, and side products) through the scalp. Some
studies have found an increased risk of certain types of nonHodgkin lymphoma in women who
use hair dyes, especially if they began use before 1980 and/or use darker colors. The same types
of results have been found in some studies of leukemia risk.
A wide variety of carcinogens have been detected as mutagens after they have been
metabolized to their active forms. In addition to a potential carcinogenicity, many of the
compounds that are mutagenic for bacteria may be hazardous to humans by causing mutations in
the germline, DNA or RNA. A molecule including either a frameshift mutation, a genetic
mutation caused by a deletion or insertion in a DNA sequence that shifts the way the sequence is
read or a basepair substitution, a type of mutation involving replacement of a single nucleotide
base with another in DNA or RNA can be extremely dangerous to a person.
The aromatic amines all require activation with microsomes for mutagenesis; this is
characteristic of a variety of aromatic amine carcinogens. Nitrocarcinogens, such as
2nitrofluorene mutate the bacteria without microsomal activation though, the bacteria contains
nitro reductases which activate them.
Many hair dye components such as, pphenylenediamine, 2,5diaminotoluene, and
2,5diaminoanisole become strongly mutagenic after oxidation by H2O2
gives a very strong mutagenic response with strain when sulfur is present, which is located in
the hair. As mentioned before, it can be hard to know what the results of these studies mean,
due to many other factors that might affect the results that are hard to account for. Neither
subjectbased or participantbased lab study provides enough evidence on its own to determine
real threats to users. If the directions are properly followed there is a very low chance of
someone contracting any of the aforementioned ailments. People have dyed their hair
with
these and even harsher chemicals for over a century. While experimentation still continues to
be researched, safer, more effective methods of hair colorization are sure to arise in the future.
In retrospect, many people who dye their hair and believe it would be a good idea to
leave the for an extra thirty minutes to make the color look better, does not understand the
background chemistry of hair colorization. The knowledge of the oxidation of melanin by
hydrogen peroxide and a chemical vehicle can help many while coloring hair by understanding
it is important to only keep the dye in for the said amount of time and to wear protective
. Pphenylenediamine
covering. People who know the chemicals in hair coloring products, how they work and the
risks they can lead to are bound to choose not to abuse the product, listen to the instructions
and have a lower risk of getting hurt by any of the carcinogens or mutagens.