The tasks were to remove the power head from the outboard and completely dismantle it referring to the work book, text book and tutor instructions on how to get the job done. We had to clean all the components and inspect the condition.
We removed the power head from the outboard and placed it on the table so it would be easier to work on it sitting down rather than standing in front of the outboard, I have learned that if it’s going to take more than a couple hours to complete a job you should be in a comfortable position while working on it, it’ll pay off on the long run.
I dismantled my power head by using the tutors instructions and using the repair manuals, I cleaned my power head before I begun the inspection for damage or warp age, I have learned that I must clean the power head before inspecting so that I can have a more accurate inspection of the power head. I than checked the cylinder head for warp, the maximum allowed warp for my type of outboard was 0.10mm, the warp was 0,15mm so that means the cylinder head failed the warp inspection so it must be resurfaced, from this task I have learned that I must follow manufacturers specifications when inspecting power heads and that measurements must be accurate
The cylinder block inspect was carried out by visually checking the cylinder sleeves for cracks and scores, this is to make sure there is no damage on the cylinder sleeves from the piston or piston rings. When I visually checked my sleeves I found a bit of ware in cylinder 1 and cracks in cylinder 2. I have learned that it is important to inspect machined surfaces carefully. I had to check for ovality and taper, to do this I used a cylinder bore gauge and measured 6 different positions. I found the specifications fir max allowable taper and ovality from the repair manual, after measuring my cylinder bores I found that it needed to be rebored. If not it could affect its operation by not being flush with the piston which will