Full tutorial for making a pump shoes pattern, accompanied by detailed videos. For up to 5 cm heel pattern.
Author Sveta Kletina
Footwear Designer www.sk-shoes.com
SK FOOTWEAR GUIDE
Contents Basic Pumps Pattern 3 Chapter One 11 Upper pattern 12 Pattern for leather lining 13 Chapter Two 16 Pattern for strengthening the décolleté in front of the last 17 Thin non-woven lining 17 Chapter Three 18 “Pumps Shoes Pattern Guide”. 19
Basic Pumps Pattern
1. Cover the last with adhesive tape strips and mark the center lines on its front and back.
2 . Mark the last meridians - lines that has the most contact between the shoes to the foot. These lines are the borders of the cut on the pump shoes, so-called cleavage, that's why it is desirable not to digress when drawing the cut line of a pattern. * To do this, we place the outer side of the last to the table and mark as point A center of the most protrusive place in the fingers. Likewise, mark the point B on the inside of the last.
* Using flexible ruler draw a line across the center line of the last front, connecting the marked points A and B . So we obtain the point of intersection C.
* Connect the points C and A with a line, divide it in half and add 0.5 mm and mark point D so that the segment DA was shorter than the length of DC. DA= AC/2-0.5 mm
* At the center line in the heel mark the point H, paving 54 mm from the edge of the heel up. 54 mm is for the size 37, each subsequent size increases it by 1 mm.
* Using flexible ruler connect point D and H with a line. This is one of the shoe last meridians.
3. Taking this meridian into account, draw the décolleté of the pump shoe.
4. Cut only the outer half of the resulting pattern and glue it to the cardboard right on the straight line that we made in advance, which will be central. So it shall be maximum coincided with the front line of the halve pattern that you made and glue the rest of the pattern as it falls. For