The fashion business

The Fashion Business

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The Fashion
Business
Theory, Practice, Image

Edited by

Nicola White and Ian Griffiths

Oxford • New York

First published in 2000 by
Berg
Editorial offices:
150 Cowley Road, Oxford OX4 1JJ, UK
838 Broadway, Third Floor, New York, NY 10003-4812, USA

© Nicola White and Ian Griffiths 2000

All rights reserved.
No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means without the written permission of Berg.

Berg is an imprint of Oxford International Publishers Ltd.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the Library of Congress.

British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

ISBN 1 85973 354 9 (Cloth)
1 85973 359 X (Paper)

Typeset by JS Typesetting, Wellingborough, Northants.
Printed in the United Kingdom by Biddles Ltd, Guildford and King’s Lynn.

Contents
Notes on Contributors

vii

List of Figures

xi

Introduction: The Fashion Business Theory, Practice, Image
Nicola White and Ian Griffiths
1

Part 1 Context

1

Fashion:Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow
Valerie Steele

7

Part 2 Theory and Culture

2

Cultures, Identities, Histories: Fashioning a Cultural
Approach to Dress
Christopher Breward

23

3

Fashion and Glamour
Réka C.V. Buckley and Stephen Gundle

37

4

Ethnic Minimalism: A Strand of 1990s British Fashion
Identity Explored via a Contextual Analysis of Designs by Shirin Guild
Amy de la Haye
55

Part 3 Design for Industry

5

The Invisible Man
Ian Griffiths

69

6

Connecting Creativity
Luigi Maramotti

91

7

The Chain Store Challenge
Brian Godbold

103

Contents

Part 4 Image and Marketing

8

The Hilfiger Factor and the Flexible Commercial
World of Couture
Lou Taylor

121

9

John Galliano: Modernity and Spectacle

References: in this article are to the paperback edition, 1991, pp. 47. Wilson, Elizabeth, Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity, London: Virago, 1985. See too Wilson, Elizabeth, The Sphinx in the City: Urban Life, the Control of Disorder, and Women, London, Virago, 1991, which, like this paper, uses Walter Benjamin to connect the 48. Wilson, Elizabeth, Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity, London: Virago, 1985, p Other Essays, London : trans. Jonathan Mayne, Phaidon Press, 1964, p. 12. 50. Featherstone, Mike, Consumer Culture and Postmodernism, Thousand Oaks, New Delhi: Sage Publications, London, 1991, p 51. Foster, Hal, The Return of the Real: the Avant-Garde at the End of the Century, Cambridge Mass & London England: MIT Press, 1996, pp 52. Featherstone, Mike, Consumer Culture and Postmodernism, Thousand Oaks, New Delhi: Sage Publications, London, 1991, argues that postmodernism is a continuation of modernity, 53. For a discussion of the effect of new technologies on sensibilities and social practice see Antony Giddens, Antony, Reith Lectures, London: BBC Publications, 1999. 54. Featherstone, Mike, Consumer Culture and Postmodernism, Thousand Oaks, New Delhi: Sage Publications, London, 1991, p