Weave Twill 3/1 design
ISTANBUL TECHNICAL UNIVERSITY
The Faculty of Textile Engineering
TEK411E- Fabric Design
Doc. Dr. Omer Berk Berkalp
Due Date: 25/12/2013
Onur Kurtulmus
Ahmet Ozan Tumsek
Ahmet Murat Kurnaz
A) Fabric Calculations Warp Tex : 35 Weft Tex : 35 Warp Density : 30 ends/cm Weft Density : 24 picks/cm (It is not stable due to unstable beating up pressure) Warp Crimp : 8%
Weft Crimp : 5%
Used dent and ends/dent : 90/3 dent
1) Cover Factor
Ccover = C1 + C2 – C1 . C 35 Tex = 16.87 Ne
C1 = d1 x n1
C2 = d2 x n2
D1 and D2 = 1/ 28. (Ne)^1/2 (inch) n1 = 30 ends/cm
D1 and D2 = 0.0220 cm n2 = 24 picks/cm
C1 = 0.0220 x 30 = 0.662
C2 = 0.0220 x 24 = 0.528
Ccover = (0.662 + 0.528) – ( 0.662 x 0.528)
Ccover = % 85.2
2) Basis Weight
Warp Weight = [30 x 100 x (1 + 0.08)]/ 16.87 = 192,05 g/m^2
Weft Weight = [24 x 100 x (1 + 0.05)]/ 16.87 = 149. 377 g/m^2
Total Weight = 341.42 g/m^2
Calculated Weight = 337.16 g/m^2
Error = (341.42 – 318.16)/ 341.42 = 6.81 %
B) Fabric Weave and Color Pattern
Black and yellow colors are used for warp and weft yarn.
On both sides ( Warp and Weft) same yarns are used.
Design repeat is 12 ends and 4 picks
The weave is weave Twill 3/1
Used yarns have 2.54 tpi twist factor
The information about yarns are given below.
The table shows the weave design graphic with DID and Cam plan.
C) The reason of faults on fabric
The different tension on warp beams.
Some mistakes occurred while passing the yarns through the dent.
Misplacement of harnesses.
Misplacement of yarns on harnesses.
Yarn breakages during the weaving process ( mostly beating up )
Some calculations mistakes
D) Usage area of fabric
It could be used for winter/fall man wear jackets.
It has unique design.
It is designed for mid-range customers.
The Faculty of Textile Engineering
TEK411E- Fabric Design
Doc. Dr. Omer Berk Berkalp
Due Date: 25/12/2013
Onur Kurtulmus
Ahmet Ozan Tumsek
Ahmet Murat Kurnaz
A) Fabric Calculations Warp Tex : 35 Weft Tex : 35 Warp Density : 30 ends/cm Weft Density : 24 picks/cm (It is not stable due to unstable beating up pressure) Warp Crimp : 8%
Weft Crimp : 5%
Used dent and ends/dent : 90/3 dent
1) Cover Factor
Ccover = C1 + C2 – C1 . C 35 Tex = 16.87 Ne
C1 = d1 x n1
C2 = d2 x n2
D1 and D2 = 1/ 28. (Ne)^1/2 (inch) n1 = 30 ends/cm
D1 and D2 = 0.0220 cm n2 = 24 picks/cm
C1 = 0.0220 x 30 = 0.662
C2 = 0.0220 x 24 = 0.528
Ccover = (0.662 + 0.528) – ( 0.662 x 0.528)
Ccover = % 85.2
2) Basis Weight
Warp Weight = [30 x 100 x (1 + 0.08)]/ 16.87 = 192,05 g/m^2
Weft Weight = [24 x 100 x (1 + 0.05)]/ 16.87 = 149. 377 g/m^2
Total Weight = 341.42 g/m^2
Calculated Weight = 337.16 g/m^2
Error = (341.42 – 318.16)/ 341.42 = 6.81 %
B) Fabric Weave and Color Pattern
Black and yellow colors are used for warp and weft yarn.
On both sides ( Warp and Weft) same yarns are used.
Design repeat is 12 ends and 4 picks
The weave is weave Twill 3/1
Used yarns have 2.54 tpi twist factor
The information about yarns are given below.
The table shows the weave design graphic with DID and Cam plan.
C) The reason of faults on fabric
The different tension on warp beams.
Some mistakes occurred while passing the yarns through the dent.
Misplacement of harnesses.
Misplacement of yarns on harnesses.
Yarn breakages during the weaving process ( mostly beating up )
Some calculations mistakes
D) Usage area of fabric
It could be used for winter/fall man wear jackets.
It has unique design.
It is designed for mid-range customers.