Coasts - Waves , Tides and Sediment Cells
Waves , Tides and Sediment Cells
L.O. = to compare and contrast constructive & destructive waves, to understand wave refraction, to understand the difference between spring and neap tides and to identify the UK’s sediment cells.
Wave Characteristics Wavelength = the distance between the crest of two adjacent waves. Wave Amplitude = the distance between sea level and the crest. Wave Crest =the highest point of the wave. Wave Trough = the lowest point of the wave. Wave Height = the distance between the crest and the trough of a wave. Swash – when water from the wave rushes up the beach. Backwash – when the swash washes back to the sea. Fetch – the distance of open water over which wind has blown to create the wave. Wave energy – depends on the velocity of the wind and the size of the fetch. Constructive wave – a wave that deposits sand on a beach. Destructive wave – a wave that erodes sand from a beach.
Using the diagram you stuck into your book last lesson “Compare and contrast the characteristics of constructive and destructive waves referring to their formation, wave form, wave break, beach gain/loss and beach profile”. Most beaches are subject to the actions of constructive and destructive waves. Over time constructive waves build a steeper beach profile. This then encourages more destructive waves which was material back into the sea. This then leads to a gentle beach profile which encourages constructive waves. This negative feedback mechanism should lead to a state of equilibrium, but other factors such as wind strength and direction lead to one type of
Constructive Wave Characteristics ●Their swash is much stronger than their backwash, causing the beach to be built up by the deposited material. ●They are less frequent, reaching shore between 6 and 9 times each minute. ●They are long waves and so roll onto the beach rather than crashing onto it. ●Constructive waves create a wide, gently sloping beach. ●Constructive waves will sometimes not seem
L.O. = to compare and contrast constructive & destructive waves, to understand wave refraction, to understand the difference between spring and neap tides and to identify the UK’s sediment cells.
Wave Characteristics Wavelength = the distance between the crest of two adjacent waves. Wave Amplitude = the distance between sea level and the crest. Wave Crest =the highest point of the wave. Wave Trough = the lowest point of the wave. Wave Height = the distance between the crest and the trough of a wave. Swash – when water from the wave rushes up the beach. Backwash – when the swash washes back to the sea. Fetch – the distance of open water over which wind has blown to create the wave. Wave energy – depends on the velocity of the wind and the size of the fetch. Constructive wave – a wave that deposits sand on a beach. Destructive wave – a wave that erodes sand from a beach.
Using the diagram you stuck into your book last lesson “Compare and contrast the characteristics of constructive and destructive waves referring to their formation, wave form, wave break, beach gain/loss and beach profile”. Most beaches are subject to the actions of constructive and destructive waves. Over time constructive waves build a steeper beach profile. This then encourages more destructive waves which was material back into the sea. This then leads to a gentle beach profile which encourages constructive waves. This negative feedback mechanism should lead to a state of equilibrium, but other factors such as wind strength and direction lead to one type of
Constructive Wave Characteristics ●Their swash is much stronger than their backwash, causing the beach to be built up by the deposited material. ●They are less frequent, reaching shore between 6 and 9 times each minute. ●They are long waves and so roll onto the beach rather than crashing onto it. ●Constructive waves create a wide, gently sloping beach. ●Constructive waves will sometimes not seem