159
Thematic Article
History and characteristics of Okinawan longevity food
Hiroko Sho Director
University of The Air Okinawa Study Center, Okinawa, Japan
Okinawan food culture in the Ryukyu island is one of the world’s most interesting culture because its consumers have the longest life expectancies and low disability rates. It is a product of cultural synthesis, with a core of Chinese food culture, inputs through food trade with South-East Asia and the Pacific and strong Japanese influences in eating style and presentation. The Satsamu sweet potato provides the largest part of the energy intake (and contributes to self-sufficiency), there is a wide array of plant foods including seaweed (especially konbu) and soy, and of herbaceous plants, accompanied by fish and pork, and by green tea and kohencha tea. Infusing multiple foodstuff and drinking the broth is characteristic. Raw sugar is eaten. The concept that ‘food is medicine’ and a high regard accorded medical practice are also intrinsic of Okinawan culture. Again, foodcentered and ancestral festivities keeep the health dimensions well-developed. Pork, konbu and tofu (soy beancurd) are indispensable ingredients in festival menus, and the combination of tofu and seaweed are used everyday. Okinawan food culture is intimately linked with an enduring belief of the system and highly developed social structure and network.
Key words: festivals, fish, foods, history, Japan, konbu, longevity, Okinawa, pork, raw sugar, Ryukyus, sweet potato, soy, tofu.
History of Okinawan Cuisine Okinawan cuisine has developed under the influence of a number of factors, including the geographical and historical background of the Okinawan people and their attitude to food. If we place the point of a compass on Okinawa, and draw a circle with a radius of 2500 km, which is the distance to Hokkaido (Fig. 1), we find that Okinawa occupies an extremely important position in the
References: 1. Chin S. The South Ryukyu Kingdom. Tokyo: NHK Publication, 1995. 2. Hokama S. Okinawa History and Culture. Tokyo: Chukoshinsho, Vol. 799, 1986. 3. Nijima M. Ryukyu traditional food. Naha: Nijima Cooking School, 1971. 4. Nijima M. My culinary art of Ryukyu food. Naha: Shibata Shoten, 1983. 5. Toyokawa H. Public nutrition. Tokyo: Koseikan Publisher, 1976. 6. Nagata N. Elderly population of Okinawa. Tokyo: Chukoron Jigyo Publishing, 1963. 7. Hokama Y, Sho H, Katsura M, Higashimori K, Kinjo S. Research on the dietary food habits of elderly Okinawans. Naha: Science Research Grant Report, 1989. 8. Sho H ed. An interview on Okinawan diet, Complete Japanese food standard, Volume 47. Naha: Nosangyoson Cultural Association, 1988. 9. Maeda G eds. The Okinawan culture and history dictionary. Tokyo: Tokyodo Publishing Company, 1972. 10. Miyagi E, Sho H, Hokama Y, Katsura M, Higashimori K, Kinjo S. Food for all occasion – spanning the end of Meiji Period to the beginning of Taisho Period. Nishihasa: University of Ryukyu, Department of Education Bulletin, Chapter 30, Second printing, Supplementary, 1987. 11. Toma S (ed.). Ozen Honso. Naha: Mitsuboshi Printing Company, 1961. 12. Regional Industry and Technical Promotion Association. Okinawan traditional medicinal food (Kusuimon) Research. Naha: Family Printing, 1985. 13. Gaja E. Ryukyu main medical herbs: Yogi agricultural research area. Naha: Shinkokai Publishing, 1952. 14. Heshiki R, Yoshimori E. Traditional Food and Clothing of Okinawa and Amami Islands. Tokyo: Meigen Shobo Publishing, 1974. 15. Higa T. The culture of sugar cane – thoughts on Ryukyu sugar cane. Naha: Yoju Shorin Publishing, 1998. 16. Hokama Y, Matsumoto K. Cooking the unique flavor of Okinawan Food. Naha: Hiraishiya Publishing, 1989. 17. Sho H. The nutrition of the South Island. Naha: Okinawa Publishing, 1988. 18. Kizaki K eds. The Okinawan nature. Naha: Heibonsha Publishing, 1975. 19. Sho H. Okinawan Traditional Food and Longevity. Okinawa Welfare Association, (ed). The Okinawa Longevity Prefecture, Chapter 5. Naha: Bunshin Printing Company, 1983. menus and in the everyday diet. This dates back to the 18th century, when raw sugar from Okinawa was traded at Shimonoseki to the Kitamaesen trading ships in return for konbu. This was brought down all the way from Hokkaido down to Okinawa on the ships of the so-called ‘Konbu road’, then used in trade with China.19 Konbu grows in seawater and said to contain 45 or more different elements, all being important minerals. The absorption rate has been reported to be high, and konbu also contains dietary fibre and essential fatty acids such as eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA). Okinawan people eat tofu regularly. Consumption of large amounts of seaweed rich in sulfur-containing amino acids brings supplementary effects of amino acids and makes good dietary sense for Okinawan people, as these amino acids are lacking in soybean protein. Pork, konbu and tofu are indispensible ingredients in festival menus and the combination of tofu and seaweed is common in the everyday diet. Some examples include clear soup with tofu and asa (hitoegusa, a green seaweed), or adding fried tofu and konbu to a meat broth. These features of Okinawan longevity food we have seen can be said to have anticipated many of the dietary factors now being studied worldwide for the prevention of lifestyle related diseases. We can but bow our heads in admiration to our forebears, and their wisdom in adhering to the principle that our health is in our own hands. A rough summary of the Okinawan longevity food culture might include the following points: 1. In modern pork cuisine, unlike in the past, saturated fats are carefully removed in the process of boiling or akunuki. Clever use is made of collagen-rich pig’s feet and internal organs. 2. Large amounts of various types of seaweed, rich in minerals, dietary fibre and essential fatty acids (EPA, DPA and DHA), are included in their diet. 3. Leafy vegetables and herbs that are rich in dietary fibre, chlorophyll and Vitamins A and C, are part of the everyday diet. 4. Okinawan tofu, which is receiving worldwide attention as containing isoflavones for the prevention of lifestyle related diseases, is consumed in large amounts. 5. Raw sugar is eaten in healthy snacks with tea and kohencha (a semifermented tea) is a popular drink.