History and Opportunities
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CHAPTER OUTLINE
Brief History of Cosmetology Career Paths for a Nail Technician A Bright Future
LEARNING OBJECTIVES
After completing this chapter, you will be able to: 1. Describe the origins of appearance enhancement. 2. Describe the advancements made in cosmetology during the 19th, 20th, and early 21st centuries. 3. List the career opportunities available to a licensed nail technician.
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KEY TERMS
Page number indicates where in the chapter the term is used.
cosmetology pg. 4
B R I E F H I S TO RY …show more content…
O F CO S M E TO LO G Y
Cosmetology is a term used to encompass a broad range of specialty areas, including hairstyling, nail technology, and esthetics. Cosmetology defined is “the art and science of beautifying and improving the skin, nails, and hair, and the study of cosmetics and their applications.’’ The term comes from the Greek word kosmetikos, meaning “skilled in the use of cosmetics.’’ Archeological studies reveal that personal beautification was practiced in some form as early as the Ice Age. The simple but effective grooming implements used at the dawn of history were shaped from sharpened flints, oyster shells, or bone. Animal sinew or strips of hide were used to tie the hair back or as adornment. Ancient people around the world used coloring matter on their hair, skin, and nails, and practiced tattooing. Pigments were made from berries, tree bark, minerals, insects, nuts, herbs, leaves, and other materials. Many of these colorants are still used today.
Egyptians
The Egyptians were the first to cultivate beauty in an extravagant fashion, and to use cosmetics as part of their personal beautification habits, religious ceremonies, and preparing the deceased for burial. As early as 3000 BC, Egyptians used minerals, insects and berries to create makeup for their eyes, lips, and skin, and henna to stain their hair and nails a rich, warm red.They were also the first civilization to infuse essential oils from the leaves, bark, and blossoms of plants for use as perfumes and for purification purposes. Queen Nefertiti (1400 BC) stained her nails red by dipping her fingertips in henna, wore lavish makeup designs, and used custom-blended essential oils as signature scents. Queen Cleopatra (50 BC) took this dedication to beauty to an entirely new level by erecting a personal cosmetics factory next to the Dead Sea. Ancient Egyptians are also credited with creating kohl makeup— originally made from a mixture of ground galena (a black mineral), sulfur, and animal fat—to heavily line the eyes, alleviate eye inflammations, and protect the eyes from the glare of the sun. In both ancient Egypt and Rome, military commanders stained their nails and lips in matching colors before important battles.
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Chinese
History also shows that during the Shang Dynasty (1600 BC), Chinese aristocrats rubbed a tinted mixture of gum arabic, gelatin, beeswax, and egg whites onto their nails to turn them crimson or ebony. Throughout the Chou Dynasty (1100 BC), gold and silver were the royal colors. During this early period in Chinese history, nail tinting was so closely tied to social status that commoners caught wearing a royal nail color faced a punishment of death.
G re e k s
During the Golden Age of Greece (beginning in 500 BC), hairstyling became a highly developed art.
The ancient Greeks made lavish use of perfumes and cosmetics in their religious rites, in grooming, and for medicinal purposes. They built elaborate baths and developed excellent methods of dressing the hair and caring for the skin and nails. Greek women applied preparations of white lead on their faces, kohl on their eyes, and vermilion on their cheeks and lips. The brilliant red pigment was made by grinding cinnabar, a mineral that is the chief source of mercury, to a fine powder. It was mixed with ointment or dusted on the skin in the same way as modern cosmetics are applied …show more content…
today.
Romans
Roman women made lavish use of fragrances and cosmetics. Facials made of milk and bread or fine wine were popular. Other facials were made of corn, flour, and milk, or flour and fresh butter.A mixture of chalk and white lead was used as a facial cosmetic.Women used hair color to indicate their class in society. Noblewomen tinted their hair red, middle-class women colored their hair blonde, and poor women colored their hair black.
M iddle Ages
The Middle Ages is the period of European history between classical antiquity and the Renaissance, beginning with the downfall of Rome in 476 AD, and lasting until about 1450.
Beauty culture is evidenced by tapestries, sculptures, and other artifacts from this period. All show towering headdresses, intricate hairstyles, and the use of cosmetics on skin and hair. Women wore colored makeup on their cheeks and lips, but not on their eyes or nails. Around 1000 AD, a Persian physician and alchemist named Avicenna refined the process of steam distillation.This ushered in the modern era of steam distilled essential oils that we use today.
R e n a i s s a n ce
This is the period in history during which Western civilization made the transition from medieval to modern history. Paintings and written records tell us a great deal about the grooming practices of the time. One of the most unusual practices was the shaving of the eyebrows and the hairline to
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show a greater expanse of forehead. A bare brow was thought to give women a look of greater intelligence. During this period, both men and women took great pride in their physical appearance and wore elaborate elegant clothing. Fragrances and cosmetics were used, although highly colored preparations for the lips, cheeks, eyes and nails were discouraged.
V ic to r i a n Age
The reign of Queen Victoria of England between 1837 and 1901 was known as the Victorian Age. Fashions in dress and personal grooming were drastically influenced by the social mores of this austere and restrictive period in history.To preserve the health and beauty of the skin, women used beauty masks and packs made from honey, eggs, milk, oatmeal, fruits, vegetables, and other natural ingredients. Victorian women are said to have pinched their cheeks and bitten their lips to induce natural color rather than use cosmetics such as rouge or lip color.
20th Centur y
In the early 20th century, the invention of motion pictures coincided with an abrupt shift in American attitudes. As viewers saw pictures of celebrities with flawless complexions, beautiful hairstyles, and manicured nails, standards of feminine beauty began to change.This era also signaled the onset of industrialization, which brought a new prosperity to the United States, and all forms of beauty began to follow trends. 1901-1910 In 1904 Max Faktor emigrated from Lodz, Poland to the United States. By 1908, he had Americanized his name to Max Factor and moved to Los Angeles, where he began by making and selling to movie stars makeup that wouldn’t cake or crack, even under hot studio lights. On October 8, 1906, Karl Nessler debuted the first permanent wave machine. In 1909, French chemist Eugene Schueller developed the first commercial hair dye. Two years later, Schueller named his company L’Oreal. That same year, Florence Graham and cosmetologist Elizabeth Hubbard opened a salon on Fifth Avenue in New York City that was eventually renamed “Elizabeth Arden.”T.J.Williams founded Maybelline in 1914 and introduced the first mascara, in the form of a cake and brush, to an adoring female public. Lipstick in cylindrical metal tubes was introduced in 1915. Prior to that lipstick came in a cosmetic pan and was applied using the pinky finger. 1920’s The cosmetics industry grew rapidly during the 1920s. Advertising expenditures in radio alone went from $390,000.00 to $3.2 million between 1927 and 1930. At first, many women’s magazines refused advertisements for cosmetics—deeming them improper—but by the end of the 1920s, cosmetics provided one of their largest sources of advertising revenue.
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1930’s In 1932—nearly 4,000 years after the first recorded nail color craze— Charles Revson of Revlon fame marketed the first nail polish—as opposed to a nail stain—using formulas that were borrowed from the automobile paint industry. This milestone marked a dramatic shift in nail cosmetics, as women finally had an array of nail lacquers available to them. Early screen sirens, Jean Harlow and Gloria Swanson glamorized this hip new nail fashion in silent pictures and early talkies by appearing in films wearing matching polish on their fingers and toes. Also in 1932, Lawrence Gelb, a New York Chemist introduced the first permanent hair color product and founded a company called Clairol. In 1935, Max Factor created pancake makeup to make actors’ skin look natural on color film. In 1938,Arnold F.Willatt invented the cold wave that used no machines or heat. The cold wave is considered to be the precursor to the modern perm. 1940’s Although commercial progress definitely came to a crawl due to World War II, the beauty industry did benefit from a major breakthrough when aerosol cans were invented. This eventually led to the first hair sprays. Shiny lips also came into vogue for the first time when women began applying petroleum jelly over their lipstick. 1951-2000 The second half of the 20th century saw the introduction of tube mascara, improved hair care and nail products, and the boom and then death of the weekly salon appointment. In the late 1960’s,Vidal Sassoon turned the hairstyling world on its ear with his revolutionary geometric cuts. The 1970’s saw a new era in highlighting when French hairdressers introduced the art of “hair weaving,” using aluminum foil. In the 1980’s makeup went full circle, from being barely there to cat-eyes and the heavy use of eye shadows and blush. In the 1990’s hair color became gentler, allowing all ethnicities to enjoy being blondes, brunettes, or redheads. In 1998, Creative Nail Design introduced the first spa pedicure system to the professional beauty industry. Juliet wraps, a paper nail wrapping system, was the first nail strengthening system performed by nail technicians. Juliet wraps were applied with model airplane glue, and wrapped across the free edge and tucked under the bottom edge of the nail. Juliet Wraps were the precursor of today’s silk and linen wraps and provided a booming business for many nail technicians until the mid 1970’s, when artificial nail enhancements completely took over the industry. Juliet wraps are also credited with establishing the now familiar bi-monthly maintenance appointments. Until plastic nail tips became widely distributed in the early 1970’s, human nail clippings were used to restore length to broken nails. When clients broke nails, they were asked to bring their separated nail tips to their nail appointments for reattachment. Because broken nails were often shattered or lost, nail technicians carefully collected client nail clippings.These
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clippings were filed into the proper shape, attached to the clients’ natural nails with glue, and then strengthened with either a Juliet paper wrap or (later) a tough plastic strip. In the mid-1970’s, plastic nail tips became widely available, along with artificial nail enhancements that were originally made from porcelain and purchased from the dental industry. The practice of using porcelain was quickly banned, and the acrylic nail business was born. The original acrylic formulations were difficult to apply, required vigorous filing, discolored easily, and had a tendency to lift away from the nail plate. By comparison, today’s formulations are nothing short of modern marvels! The same holds true of nail tips that have evolved from being straight, unnatural-looking, and difficult to fit, to the natural, easy-fitting tips we have today. Jeff Pink, American nail icon and founder of Orly nail care products, created the first iconic nail look in 1975, when he introduced the original French Manicure , which is characterized by natural looking nail beds and clean white tips. Mr. Pink is also credited with creating ridge filler—a product that makes ridged nails appear smooth—and fiber nail strengtheners that add strength to brittle, flexible and peeling nails.
21st Centur y
Today, hairstylists have far gentler, no-fade hair color, and estheticians can noticeably rejuvenate the face, as well as keep disorders such as sunspots and mild acne at bay. The beauty industry has also entered the age of specialization, where cosmetologists frequently specialize in either hair color or haircutting; estheticians specialize in esthetic or medical-esthetic services; and nail technicians can either offer a full array of services, or specialize in artificial nail enhancements, natural nail care, or even pedicures. In terms of products, nail technicians now work with advanced acrylic (methacrylate), UV-light and no-light gel artificial nail enhancement products that never yellow, are much easier to apply, and are far more durable than formulations available just 10 years ago. Silk and linen wraps have become tougher and far more natural looking. Unlike all but the last few years of the 20th century, when the most beneficial nail service was a hot oil manicure, there are now a bevy of professional products to promote beautiful hands and feet. Nail polish formulations have also evolved to embody chip-resistant, fade-resistant characteristics that retain a lustrous finish for up to two weeks. Manicuring implements have also reached a zenith in terms of ergonomics and performance, and the number of natural nail services and products available on the professional market is both staggering and exciting. Since the late 1980’s, the salon industry has evolved to include day spas, a name that was first coined by beauty legend Noel DeCaprio. Day spas now represent an excellent employment opportunity for nail technicians who wish to do in-depth manicures and pedicures that use sophisticated natural-based products with beneficial botanical extracts and essential oils. Men’s-only specialty spas and barber spas have also grown in popularity,
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providing new opportunities for men’s nail care specialists. The pedicure phenomenon has also catapulted the nail care industry into the forefront of beauty. Because our culture now views nail care as an essential part of grooming, even moderately priced family salons now typically employ nail technicians. All of these areas of growth combined have created a job surplus, making nail technicians one of the most sought-after practitioners in the beauty industry.
C A R E E R PAT H S F O R A N A I L T E C H N I C I A N
To become part of this exciting and growing profession, make the most out of your school experience, eagerly embrace new information, push the limits of your creativity, and explore all your career options to find out which choices are right for you.
Nail Technician
Today, clients are eagerly requesting a variety of services that require a combination of skills. Natural nail services—luxurious manicures and pedicures, as well as natural nail-strengthening treatments—acrylic nail enhancements, the latest gel nail services, and silk nail wraps are all very popular in salons and day spas (Figure 1–1).
Salon M anagement
If business is your calling, you will find that management opportunities in the salon and spa environment are quite diverse. They include inventory manager, department head, educator, special events manager (promotions),
Figure 1–1 The demand for nail services has quadrupled over the past 5 years.
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assistant manager, and general manager.With experience, you can also add “salon owner’’ to this list of career possibilities.To ensure your success, it is wise to enroll in business classes to learn more about managing products, departments, and, above all, people. While you will most likely begin your career in a salon, your career choices do not end there. Just a few career possibilities outside the salon follow: Product educator for a manufacturer or distributor Distributor sales representative Freelance editorial nail technician for photo shoots, film, and more Beauty school instructor and, eventually, supervisor of a school Retail sales and management Beyond defining your area of expertise, you must also decide whether you want to work in one or more of the following environments in your career: Nail salon Full-service salon (hair, skin, and nail services) Day spa (skin, body, nail, and hair services that emphasize beauty and wellness) (Figure 1–2) To learn more about all types of salon business models, see Chapter 20. There you will find a wealth of choices, including national and regional chains, and independent opportunities.
Figure 1–2 A day spa may offer nail, hair, body, and skin services.
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A BR I GH T F U T U R E
Clearly, the field of cosmetology has broadened to encompass areas of specialization including esthetics and nail technology. As the cosmetology industry continues to grow, opportunities for professionals also grow.To make each day in school positively impact your future, focus on your studies, read trade publications cover to cover, become a member of relevant trade associations, and attend workshops outside of school. Remember, your license will unlock countless doors, but it is your personal dedication and passion that will fuel your career.
REVIEW QUESTIONS
1. What are the origins of appearance enhancement? 2. Name the advancements made in cosmetology during the 19th, 20th, and early 21st centuries. 3. List some of the career opportunities available to licensed nail technicians.
CHAPTER GLOSSARY cosmetology The art and science of beautifying and improving the skin, nails, and hair, and the study of cosmetics and their applications.