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Fashion
The International Review of Retail, Distribution and Consumer Research Vol. 20, No. 1, February 2010, 165–173

Fast fashion: response to changes in the fashion industry
Vertica Bhardwaj* and Ann Fairhurst
Retail and Consumer Sciences, The University of Tennessee, Knoxville, USA (Received June 2009; final version received October 2009) The fashion apparel industry has significantly evolved, particularly over the last 20 years. The changing dynamics of the fashion industry have forced retailers to desire low cost and flexibility in design, quality, and speed to market, key strategies to maintain a profitable position in the increasingly demanding market. This article reviews the literature on changes that have happened in the fashion apparel industry since the 1990s, highlighting the emergence of a concept of ‘throwaway’ or fast fashion. It describes fast fashion from a supplier as well as a consumer’s perspective, and draws attention to several potential research issues. Keywords: fast fashion; supplier; consumer; quick response; fashion season

The fashion apparel industry has significantly evolved, particularly over the last 20 years, when the boundaries of the industry started to expand (Djelic and Ainamo 1999). The changing dynamics of the fashion industry since then, such as the fading of mass production, increase in number of fashion seasons, and modified structural characteristics in the supply chain have forced retailers to desire low cost and flexibility in design, quality, delivery and speed to market (Doyle, Moore, and Morgan 2006). In addition to speed to market and design, marketing and capital investment have also been identified as the driving forces of competitiveness in the fashion apparel industry (Sinha 2006). Franks (2000) suggested ‘sense and respond’ as the key strategy to maintain a profitable position in the increasingly dynamic and demanding market. A key defining characteristic of rapid responsiveness and greater flexibility, in this context, is



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The process of fashion trend development leading to a season. In Fashion marketing: Contemporary issues, ed. T. Hines, and M. Bruce, 121–32. Chapter 7. Oxford: Elsevier Butterworth-Heinemann. Jones, J. 1995. Forces behind restructuring in US apparel retailing and its effect on the US apparel industry. Industry, Trade, and Technology Review, March: 23–30. Malone, S. 1998. Custom foot-falls into bankruptcy, but concept lives on, says founder. Footwear News 54, no. 23: 5. Malone, S. 1999. Making strides in mass customization. Women’s Wear Daily July: 12. National Post. 2009. Fast fashion. http://trendwatching.com/about/inmedia/articles/2009_ fast_fashion.html US Office of Technology Assessment. 1987. The US textile and apparel industry: A revolution in progress. Washington, DC: US government Printing Office. Perry, M., and A.S. Sohal. 2000. Quick response practices and technologies in developing supply chains. 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Copyright of International Review of Retail, Distribution & Consumer Research is the property of Routledge and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder 's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use.

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