Surfs Up If You Dare

Surfs Up If You Dare

Surfing is challenging sport which has been around since the third voyage of Captain James Cook in 1769. It has been an integral part of the Hawaiian lifestyle and actually predates Cook's writings but just how far back it goes is unknown.

The Polynesians were the masters of surfing and the best boards and beaches were open to only the upper-class and royalty of Hawaii. The working class citizens had to subside using boards made with unskilled hands, poor wood, and beaches with little wave activity.

Fast-forward to the beginning of the 20th century, when Hawaiians living near Waikiki beach started to revive the ancient sport and brought it to North America. Slowly and quietly, surfing started a slow, steady climb until it took a tremendous leap in the 60's when the Beach Boys, and several beach movies hit the scene. Surfing was now becoming mainstream
and people everywhere where wanting to catch the waves.

With surfing taking a big leap in the 60's, more people started to modify the board; making it safer, sturdier, and capable of better performance. Competitions started popping up all over the USA and other countries blessed with strong waves.

Fins were introduced to the boards, making them sturdier and allowing the amateur surfers to give it a go. Before the use of fins on the board, only highly skilled surfers could manage to stay afloat. By the end of the 60's, the board had made a radical change. Going from its usual 10 foot length to just a mere 6 foot. This “short board” revolution was inspired by Australian board designers and it revolutionized the industry.

Pro-surfers started becoming as popular as Hollywood actors which inspired the advent of “surfing attire” and eventually, “Surfer” magazine was formed and the craze was on.

This brings us to the 21st century when people thought surfing wouldn't go much further than looking to “hang-ten” on the big waves nearing 50 – 100 feet in height.
Breathtaking to the onlooker, however, extremely dangerous to the surfer.

You would think that would suffice for most surfers. Given that they are taking their life into their hands when challenging a wave like that. However, that was not enough for some. Pro surfers like Santa Cruz, California native Anthony Tashnick started looking for even bigger challenges and found them right where he lives.

The oceans surrounding the California coastline have dozens of ocean caves large enough and with enough water flow to attract a few die-hard, daring surfers who use their longboard's to shoot through the rocky openings.

Don't even think of attempting this unless you are a well experienced surfer and have an extremely hard head. Usually only attempted during high-tide, the waters in the caves often hide a multitude of jagged, sharp rocks and coral reefs making this new twist on an old sport one of the most dangerous pursuits
around.

Cave surfing, or “rock-barrel” surfing as it is also called, it not limited to the coast of California. This marvel of skill and daring courage has spread around the world as surf masters look for new ways to bring on a thrill and continue to master their technique. One location which has become a surfing “hot-spot” is in Southern Izu, Japan, where pro-surfer, Ericsurf6 became the first surfer to attempt the narrow and shallow rock-barrel.

This form of surfing is relatively new and not likely to disappear anytime soon. However, given the degree of skill which is required and the inherent level of danger, I don't see this becoming a mainstream sport.