1. Dig the outlined bog to a depth of 12-14”, removing soil to form a basin. The bottom should be mostly flat, level, or slightly pitched. The sides should go mostly straight down.
2. If moles or tunneling rodents are a problem on the property, line the basin with galvanized hardware cloth, screening, or heavy, woven weed cloth/barrier. Use rot/rust resistant materials.
3. Line the bottom and sides of the basin with 4-6 millimeter plastic sheeting (on top of any mole/ rodent protection.) Leave plenty of excess plastic along the edges; it can be trimmed away after the bog is filled and settled. Cut several 10” slits in the liner base, every foot or so. This will allow the bog to drain, while the liner holds most of the moisture in the bog.
4. Add 2-3” of moist sand to the bottom. Coarse sands are good to use. Do not use beach sand.
5. Fill the remaining basin with: 1-part sand plus 3 parts peat moss, dampened and mixed well.
6. Tamp the mix in place using a bow rake; this will reduce settling of the mix. The bog should be filled until it is about an inch below surrounding, existing, soil level.
The lining materials can be trimmed as needed. It is wise to leave about 12” of liner/mammal guard exposed in case the bog settles further; this edge can be …show more content…
It is recommended that soaker hoses should be buried three inches below the surface and about two feet apart, to deliver efficient irrigation. Gentle hand watering is an option. Five-day watering intervals are typical, depending on weather. Mulch 6” deep of pine needles or oak leaves is wise in Zone 6 and colder parts of Zone 7. This mulch should be added about Dec.-late Feb., and then removed once temperatures are above 32° F. If plants are pushed out of the soil by ice, replant immediately. Dead leaves can be trimmed off about 2” above soil level. Fertilizing needs to be avoided (Sacilotto