One of the main reasons for its anonymity is the lack of publications detailing the area. Here in the Big Empty, however, many lonely and rather mysterious dirt roads have a come-hither attraction, if for no other reason than to see where they lead. Many of them do not require a tank or a beefy 4WD rig.
Few travelers are tempted to abandon the smooth and comfortable black line of freeway between Lone Pine and Bridgeport to investigate the empty high desert east of Highway 395.
Rare, too, are day hikers and backpackers …show more content…
in the “long brown land,” as aptly described by Mary Austin in her classic “Land Of Little Rain.” The vast majority of outdoor enthusiasts prefer the astounding, massive beauty of the Sierra Nevada to the west.
I confess that I was one of those who believed that a high (or low) desert environment was boring, drab, featureless and something to be endured on the way to somewhere else. I could not imagine choosing a destination that wasn’t water-rich and carpeted with green things. Lots of green things.
However, thanks to a local forest ranger/friend who lured me into the austere beauty of the White Mountains, my opinion did a 180 within 72 hours. I am proof positive that an old dog can learn new tricks. Since that memorable weekend 12 years ago, I have roamed the byways and trails as often as possible in all seasons. Green is no longer my sole yardstick for beauty in nature.
Three treks in three days were transformative experiences. Never did I expect to appreciate the solemn and tranquil ambiance of the “long brown land” where rainfall is measured by the spoonful.
Though lacking lakes and dashing streams, I was completely unprepared for the great diversity tucked away in these seemingly somber mountains: fascinating geology, meadows, colorful gorges, towering peaks, seasonal wildflowers, perennial springs, vibrant aspen groves, jumbled badlands, mining relics, quirky dirt tracks that beckon the adventurous, the endless peace and quiet that permeated the atmosphere, and so quiet I could hear the wing beats of small songbirds.
The route from downtown Bishop is quick and mostly on paved county roads. After you turn off onto a dirt road, slow down as you proceed to the mouth of Black Canyon and the start of the hike. Most passenger cars can negotiate the track that increases in rockiness and ruts for about 2.2 miles.
Unless you are driving a 4WD rig, park off the road and walk the remaining mile in lower Black Canyon to the trailhead; note that the landscape becomes increasingly more rugged and stern. Stacked high on both sides of the canyon you will see a white layer of volcanic ash that was deposited by a mega- volcanic event 760,000 years ago when the Long Valley caldera blew its top.
As you hoof it or drive the rest of the brief distance to trailhead, spot a short path on the left to a forlorn mine tunnel. Be smart and do not enter it, please. In my experience, snakes like the cooler temps of these old adits.
Along the way and also on your left, the scant remains of a rock miner’s cabin and a “quail guzzler” are evident. A guzzler, installed by the Department of Fish and Wildlife, is designed to capture the area’s sparse rainfall and channel it into an underground storage tank. A sloping ramp allows quail and other wildlife to access life-giving water. Above the guzzler, a line of low stacked rocks indicates a crude road arrowing upslope to an abandoned mining site or two. If you are interested, the old, one-way track begins in the brush near Black’s entrance.
Not far from here, about 5.5 miles from the black top, the road ends and splits at the foot of the mountains where there is a large parking area.
At 5,300 feet elevation, the left fork, your route, leads into the heart of Black Canyon; Marble Canyon is on the right. Immediately you will see how it got its name.
If you feel like rummaging around in the sagebrush at the fork you will find the stone foundations and remnant rock walls of a few structures that are the scant remains of a WWI era mine camp. Keen eyes will spot a piece of asphalt here and there as you proceed through the gorge. Though it sounds impossible, at one time the road was paved! Though rarely traveled these days, motorized travel is legal in the lower canyon. Mountain bikers find it a fun and challenging destination.
Little did I expect to be gifted with such a wealth of wondrous, picturesque rock formations and unexpected beauty. The farther I walked, the more Black Canyon revealed itself. Before long, the road bed changes to a trail as it squeezes through a rocky
defile.
Ancient black metamorphic rock walls rise steeply on either side. The contrast between their brooding darkness and the lighter orange colored rock will certainly capture your attention. Pass a mine tunnel to the right, and resist entering the intriguing hole in the rock. Lots of photo ops here.
About 1.5 miles in, there is a spring and a mass of wild roses nourished by the water source. Climate conditions determine the volume of water, but it is potable. A few small tent sites are on the opposite side.
Stop here if you choose a short trek. If not, continue up the wash which gets wider as the route ascends. The trail enters a colony of flora dominated by sagebrush, and pinyon pines appear on the slopes above.
Approximately 2.6 miles beyond the spring, the canyon constricts again. Towering marble (limestone) pinnacles thrust skyward and add more visual interest to this remote gash in the earth. Coming out of the narrows, find yourself hiking in an undulating pinyon-juniper woodland, typical mid-elevation vegetation in these parts.
Soon the route passes another defunct mine, and one mile beyond the pinnacles reaches a fork. This is another turn-around spot if you are winded, the weather is deteriorating or you are out of time. Those moving on, bear left and then immediately turn right at the next junction.
The gradient now becomes very mellow through open woodland. To the east and high above, note White Mountain Road leading to the Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest and Schulman Grove Visitor Center. Unless you have a shuttle car waiting for you or are a strong hiker, do not tackle the long steep trek from here to the road or Visitor Center. Instead, retrace your steps to your vehicle and see the sights of this special landscape from another perspective.