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emotion in ur life
10.2

Jacquard construction

A Jacquard machine is constructed of three main parts: (a) the engine, (b) the harness tie, and (c) the Jacquard engine drive that is connected to the weaving machine main drive, to provide motion for the different parts of the Jacquard engine. 10.7 Electronic Jacquard (Staubli Corporation).
Notes:
a = pulleys b & c = hooks d & e = retaining hooks f & g = knives h = electromagnet i = harness cord

10.2.1 Mechanical Jacquard
In mechanical Jacquard, the essential parts of the engine that work in harmony to select hooks are the cylinder, pattern cards, needles, springs, and knives
(Fig. 10.6). The cylinder is a perforated square prism with a number of holes on each side equal to the number of needles. The centreline of each hole coincides with the centreline of a needle. Each needle is in contact with a spring. The pattern cards are made of cardboard and formed into an endless chain. One pattern card

corresponds to the formation of one weft yarn in the Jacquard weave repeat. The needles and hooks are arranged in short and long rows. A pattern card has locations that are also arranged in short and long rows, with each location dedicated to a needle or hook since each hook resides in the bent of a needle. Location in the pattern cards is punched or left unpunched, depending whether the corresponding hook (or warp yarn(s)) is to be raised or lowered respectively according to the weave design. After a weft yarn is woven, the cylinder moves away from the needles (left in Fig. 10.6), turns a quarter revolution (clockwise in Fig. 10.6), then moves toward the needles and press against them. Figure 10.6, for clarity, shows only two needles and their corresponding hooks with a needle facing a punched hole in the active pattern card and the other facing no hole. The first needle stays in place, while the other needle is pushed to the right. The hook of the first needle is now against the knife and the hook of

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