Bodyboarding: A Short Story

Growing up on an island surrounded by water, it was hard to resist the temptations of the ocean. I was vicariously watching the older crew who were pretty gregarious bodyboarders , but as me and my friends grew older we got dexterous with bodyboarding. Our little crew was always trying to one up each other, we were pretty ostentatious when it came to that kind of stuff. We would always go out on the optimal days for bodyboarding, but some days we would just go out to facetious time. We would also go on days that were detrimental to our safety, but we didn't care, we would just go and not think about what we were doing. A few winters ago there was a swell that came in and one of the biggest swells that I had ever seen, I was surfing
at Banyans and it was so big, people had to jump out from gates which is a smaller beach located a few yards away from Banyans. The waves looked like mountains, if you closed your eyes it would sound like thunder hitting the earth, and you could just taste and smell the salt in the air, it was a sensory overload. I remember standing on the beach and having scrupulous thoughts on going out, but the surfer in me told me to just go out, so I did. As I was paddling out I was just in the middle of being scared and excited, every one out there had some type of discretion when riding those giants. Me and my good friend were sitting on the outside just talking and at the corner of my eye I saw sets start to roll in and my friend shouted at me saying "your on this!", so I turned around and started to paddle. As I dropped in it felt like I was falling down a two story building, my legs almost touched the back of my head, there was so much water going up the face of the wave that I stopped at the bottom of it, a few seconds after I was buried in an avalanche of water getting tossed around like I was clothes in a washer. I popped up and continued to get beaten by the following sets, paddling back out I was congratulated on the set that I took even though I didn't complete it, I caught a few more and went in. It was a good day to remember