The wind attacks my ears as the car crests the hill on the way to the beach. As the car struggles over the hill the blue sky explodes back into the car having disappeared from view. The car is filled with excited chatter about the girls that are going to be at the beach. The radio presenter who muffles in between the chatter reports on the swells. They are said to be reaching six feet tall. I feel my nerves tatter as I think of the sheer size of such a wave, I have never surfed such a big wave. Huge waves are like giants imposing their will on you as you try to conquer them. “Waves and girls are all we could ask for!” I am informed by Kyle next to me
Silver sand scorches our feet as we make our way across the sand. The grains attempt to break away from the crowd by clinging to my feet to a place unknown. Their efforts are fruitless as I wade through the water and my feet are cooled and cleansed by the fresh ocean. The waves crash on the shore in an eternal to and fro. I lie down listening to the chatter and the waves’ swishing. As I drift into a sleeplike state of