There are few food wastes that vermicomposting cannot compost, although meat waste and dairy products are likely to putrefy, and in outdoor bins can attract vermin. Green waste should be added in moderation to avoid heating the bin.
Small-scale or home systems
Such systems usually use kitchen and garden waste, using "earthworms and other microorganisms to digest organic wastes, such as kitchen scraps". This includes:
• All fruits and vegetables (including citrus and other "high acid" foods)
• Vegetable and fruit peels and ends
• Coffee grounds and filters
• Tea bags (even those with high tannin levels)
• Grains such as bread, cracker and cereal (including moldy and stale)
• Eggshells (rinsed off)
• Leaves and grass clippings (not sprayed with pesticides[17])
Large-scale or commercial
Such vermicomposting systems need reliable sources of large quantities of food. Systems presently operating[18] use:
• Dairy cow or pig manure[19]
• Sewage sludge. Cornell Waste Management has shown that land that had sewer sludge (biosolids) applied was devoid of worms.
• Agricultural waste
• Food processing and grocery waste
• Cafeteria waste
• Grass clippings and wood chips
Harvesting:-
Worms in a bin being harvested
Vermicompost is ready for harvest when it contains few-to-no scraps of uneaten food or bedding. There are several methods of harvesting from small-scale systems: "dump and hand sort", "let the worms do the sorting", "alternate containers" and "divide and dump." These differ on the amount of time and labor involved and whether the vermicomposter wants to save as many worms as possible from being trapped in the harvested compost.
While harvesting, it's also a good idea to try to pick out as many eggs/cocoons as possible and return them to the bin. Eggs are small, lemon-shaped yellowish objects that can usually be seen pretty easily with the naked eye and picked out.